How to solder a 70 °C (158 °F) thermal / temperature fuse
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up vote
16
down vote
favorite
For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).
The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 ðC (392 ðF) (although I soldered it with 350 ðC (662 ðF), forgetting about this).
But how should I solder this component?
soldering fuses thermal heat-protection
add a comment |Â
up vote
16
down vote
favorite
For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).
The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 ðC (392 ðF) (although I soldered it with 350 ðC (662 ðF), forgetting about this).
But how should I solder this component?
soldering fuses thermal heat-protection
5
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
â ÃÂõú
22 hours ago
@ÃÂõú Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
4
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
â Janka
22 hours ago
5
What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
â Uwe
12 hours ago
@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
16
down vote
favorite
up vote
16
down vote
favorite
For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).
The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 ðC (392 ðF) (although I soldered it with 350 ðC (662 ðF), forgetting about this).
But how should I solder this component?
soldering fuses thermal heat-protection
For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered this temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).
The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 ðC (392 ðF) (although I soldered it with 350 ðC (662 ðF), forgetting about this).
But how should I solder this component?
soldering fuses thermal heat-protection
soldering fuses thermal heat-protection
edited 8 mins ago
asked 22 hours ago
Michel Keijzers
5,03562255
5,03562255
5
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
â ÃÂõú
22 hours ago
@ÃÂõú Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
4
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
â Janka
22 hours ago
5
What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
â Uwe
12 hours ago
@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
add a comment |Â
5
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
â ÃÂõú
22 hours ago
@ÃÂõú Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
4
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
â Janka
22 hours ago
5
What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
â Uwe
12 hours ago
@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
5
5
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
â ÃÂõú
22 hours ago
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
â ÃÂõú
22 hours ago
@ÃÂõú Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
@ÃÂõú Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
4
4
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
â Janka
22 hours ago
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
â Janka
22 hours ago
5
5
What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
â Uwe
12 hours ago
What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
â Uwe
12 hours ago
@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
add a comment |Â
8 Answers
8
active
oldest
votes
up vote
24
down vote
accepted
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
2
Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
â Nick Alexeevâ¦
20 hours ago
Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/â¦
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
29
down vote
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
2
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
â Phil G
22 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
â user71659
19 hours ago
1
I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
â Spehro Pefhany
14 hours ago
1
@Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
â Transistor
12 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers You donâÂÂt need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
â Christian Lescuyer
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 2 more comments
up vote
11
down vote
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
7
down vote
Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200ðC are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.
For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.
Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.
New contributor
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.
New contributor
2
That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
â chepner
5 hours ago
Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
â Matt
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
8 Answers
8
active
oldest
votes
8 Answers
8
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
24
down vote
accepted
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
2
Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
â Nick Alexeevâ¦
20 hours ago
Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/â¦
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
24
down vote
accepted
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
2
Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
â Nick Alexeevâ¦
20 hours ago
Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/â¦
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
24
down vote
accepted
up vote
24
down vote
accepted
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.
Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.
answered 22 hours ago
Peter Bennett
35.2k12662
35.2k12662
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
2
Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
â Nick Alexeevâ¦
20 hours ago
Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/â¦
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
add a comment |Â
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
2
Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
â Nick Alexeevâ¦
20 hours ago
Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/â¦
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
2
2
Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
â Nick Alexeevâ¦
20 hours ago
Spot-welding the wires is another common method for connecting thermal cutoffs.
â Nick Alexeevâ¦
20 hours ago
Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/â¦
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
Would a terminal block work? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/401440/â¦
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
29
down vote
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
2
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
â Phil G
22 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
â user71659
19 hours ago
1
I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
â Spehro Pefhany
14 hours ago
1
@Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
â Transistor
12 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers You donâÂÂt need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
â Christian Lescuyer
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 2 more comments
up vote
29
down vote
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
2
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
â Phil G
22 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
â user71659
19 hours ago
1
I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
â Spehro Pefhany
14 hours ago
1
@Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
â Transistor
12 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers You donâÂÂt need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
â Christian Lescuyer
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 2 more comments
up vote
29
down vote
up vote
29
down vote
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.
Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.
Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.
answered 22 hours ago
Transistor
75.4k573165
75.4k573165
2
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
â Phil G
22 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
â user71659
19 hours ago
1
I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
â Spehro Pefhany
14 hours ago
1
@Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
â Transistor
12 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers You donâÂÂt need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
â Christian Lescuyer
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 2 more comments
2
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
â Phil G
22 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
â user71659
19 hours ago
1
I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
â Spehro Pefhany
14 hours ago
1
@Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
â Transistor
12 hours ago
1
@MichelKeijzers You donâÂÂt need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
â Christian Lescuyer
5 hours ago
2
2
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
â Phil G
22 hours ago
With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
â Phil G
22 hours ago
1
1
@MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
â user71659
19 hours ago
@MichelKeijzers Along with the rubber band idea, you can also try one or more locking forceps.
â user71659
19 hours ago
1
1
I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
â Spehro Pefhany
14 hours ago
I have a haemostat for this kind of thing.
â Spehro Pefhany
14 hours ago
1
1
@Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
â Transistor
12 hours ago
@Spehro: Sorry to hear that. Can your doctor help? d:^)
â Transistor
12 hours ago
1
1
@MichelKeijzers You donâÂÂt need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
â Christian Lescuyer
5 hours ago
@MichelKeijzers You donâÂÂt need a fourth hand ;) the pliers will hold the component in place.
â Christian Lescuyer
5 hours ago
 |Â
show 2 more comments
up vote
11
down vote
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
11
down vote
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
11
down vote
up vote
11
down vote
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.
You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky.
answered 22 hours ago
Phil G
5016
5016
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
add a comment |Â
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
7
down vote
Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200ðC are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.
For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.
Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).
add a comment |Â
up vote
7
down vote
Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200ðC are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.
For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.
Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).
add a comment |Â
up vote
7
down vote
up vote
7
down vote
Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200ðC are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.
For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.
Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).
Soldering stations which can be set to much lower temperatures than 200ðC are not unheard of (and wide temperature range somewhat correlates with quality). If you had one of these, you could use low-temperature solder like chipquik.
For a one-off job and considering your space constraints, you could simply solder copper wires where the fuse needs to be, then twist these wires with fuse terminals, which is not as good as crimping, but does get the job done in practice. Twisted parts can then be trimmed to save space (3-4 twists is enough) and heat-shrink could be put on if insulation is required.
Another idea is to bend the fuse terminal in a snake-like pattern to save space, and then solder the ends of therminals, while cooling down the therminals entering the device (e.g. by holding them with a wet cloth).
edited 14 hours ago
answered 14 hours ago
Dmitry Grigoryev
17.1k22772
17.1k22772
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
up vote
4
down vote
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.
Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.
Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.
Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.
answered 21 hours ago
Phil C
9861117
9861117
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.
add a comment |Â
up vote
4
down vote
up vote
4
down vote
My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.
My suggestion, given your lack of space is to attach with conductive silver epoxy. This will give you a fairly robust conductive connection with no application of heat.
answered 3 hours ago
user71659
3157
3157
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.
New contributor
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.
New contributor
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
up vote
3
down vote
Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.
New contributor
Do as everyone else does. Wrap the therm with a ziplock bag of ice. Then solder away. A wet wrag placed in a fridge is the preferred method.
New contributor
New contributor
answered 8 hours ago
rodeone2
312
312
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.
New contributor
2
That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
â chepner
5 hours ago
Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
â Matt
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.
New contributor
2
That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
â chepner
5 hours ago
Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
â Matt
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
up vote
0
down vote
up vote
0
down vote
Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.
New contributor
Use Bismuth solder along with above mentioned heat sinking, 185 degrees melting point.
New contributor
edited 10 hours ago
Michel Keijzers
5,03562255
5,03562255
New contributor
answered 11 hours ago
Matt
91
91
New contributor
New contributor
2
That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
â chepner
5 hours ago
Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
â Matt
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
2
That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
â chepner
5 hours ago
Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
â Matt
2 hours ago
2
2
That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
â chepner
5 hours ago
That's still higher than the fuse rating, and the solder just turns to liquid at 185, which can still be heated as hot as the soldering iron can make it.
â chepner
5 hours ago
Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
â Matt
2 hours ago
Granted, I was just offering best case possibly for soldering application.
â Matt
2 hours ago
add a comment |Â
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5
You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
â ÃÂõú
22 hours ago
@ÃÂõú Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
â Michel Keijzers
22 hours ago
4
The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
â Janka
22 hours ago
5
What about reading the datasheet and application notes carefully about soldering hints?
â Uwe
12 hours ago
@Uwe You are completely right, I found some tips, but in the anwers much more background is given.
â Michel Keijzers
8 hours ago