240v outlet not delivering 240v
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I recently moved into an apartment with a 3 prong, NEMA 10-30 outlet. It looks like this:
I bought an old dryer that I confirmed was working before purchasing it and hooked it up and unfortunately the dryer never heated up. I suspected something was up with the outlet, so I busted out the multimeter and measured each connection. I used an elekcity msr-r500 and had it set to the AC 500 setting and measured the following:
- Y to X: 0v
- Y to W: 120v
- X to W: 120v
Based on my research it would seem that Y to X should have read 240v, not 0. However, the other two connections are both reading 120v correctly. I'm wondering what this would typically indicate - bad wiring? If so, what would be a good next step to either fix the issue or confirm the problem? Or at this point is it time to call an electrician?
electrical dryer 240v 120-240v
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I recently moved into an apartment with a 3 prong, NEMA 10-30 outlet. It looks like this:
I bought an old dryer that I confirmed was working before purchasing it and hooked it up and unfortunately the dryer never heated up. I suspected something was up with the outlet, so I busted out the multimeter and measured each connection. I used an elekcity msr-r500 and had it set to the AC 500 setting and measured the following:
- Y to X: 0v
- Y to W: 120v
- X to W: 120v
Based on my research it would seem that Y to X should have read 240v, not 0. However, the other two connections are both reading 120v correctly. I'm wondering what this would typically indicate - bad wiring? If so, what would be a good next step to either fix the issue or confirm the problem? Or at this point is it time to call an electrician?
electrical dryer 240v 120-240v
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add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I recently moved into an apartment with a 3 prong, NEMA 10-30 outlet. It looks like this:
I bought an old dryer that I confirmed was working before purchasing it and hooked it up and unfortunately the dryer never heated up. I suspected something was up with the outlet, so I busted out the multimeter and measured each connection. I used an elekcity msr-r500 and had it set to the AC 500 setting and measured the following:
- Y to X: 0v
- Y to W: 120v
- X to W: 120v
Based on my research it would seem that Y to X should have read 240v, not 0. However, the other two connections are both reading 120v correctly. I'm wondering what this would typically indicate - bad wiring? If so, what would be a good next step to either fix the issue or confirm the problem? Or at this point is it time to call an electrician?
electrical dryer 240v 120-240v
New contributor
I recently moved into an apartment with a 3 prong, NEMA 10-30 outlet. It looks like this:
I bought an old dryer that I confirmed was working before purchasing it and hooked it up and unfortunately the dryer never heated up. I suspected something was up with the outlet, so I busted out the multimeter and measured each connection. I used an elekcity msr-r500 and had it set to the AC 500 setting and measured the following:
- Y to X: 0v
- Y to W: 120v
- X to W: 120v
Based on my research it would seem that Y to X should have read 240v, not 0. However, the other two connections are both reading 120v correctly. I'm wondering what this would typically indicate - bad wiring? If so, what would be a good next step to either fix the issue or confirm the problem? Or at this point is it time to call an electrician?
electrical dryer 240v 120-240v
electrical dryer 240v 120-240v
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asked 3 hours ago
Clicquot the Dog
61
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2 Answers
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I bet if you go to your service panel, you're going to find a completely full service panel, and a unique creature we call a "double-stuff breaker". Quite likely the landlord does his own electrical work or pays a dumb handyman (naughty naughty). He's out of space in the panel, so he resorted to those double-stuffs.
He moved the dryer from a 2-pole breaker (which takes 2 spaces) to a duplex breaker that takes only one. Didn't notice the duplex sides can turned off individually, making them unfit for dryer use.
Since this is a rental, you can't fix any of this. Most jurisdictions require commercial work be done only by licensed electricians, and rental properties are considered commercial. You can't, he can't, his handyman can't. A pro electrician is required.
Given this level of incompetence, I would not advise trusting that circuit. The obsolete and dangerous 3-prong connections absolutely rely on the neutral wire being intact and not broken. If neutral breaks, the chassis of the dryer becomes electrified and can kill you, especially as you are handling wet things and touching both dryer (electrified) and washer (grounded).
But since he must fix it, he should consider bringing in someone competent, and upgrading the circuit to modern, safe NEMA 14 standard. This will require you change the dryer plug (back to what it was shipped with), but will be much safer for your family.
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up vote
1
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One possibility is that the two hots, labelled X and Y, are on the same line.
The 240V electrical service typical in the US is a three wire Edison circuit, with two of the service wires, commonly designated L1 and L2, are at 240VAC at 60Hz, with the neutral tapped midway between the two - 120V L1 to N and 120V L2 to N - and the neutral is grounded.
In your electrical panel, a 240V 2-pole breaker will attach to bus bars that are each in turn connected to L1 and L2. So the two poles of the breaker are at 240V.
If the wires at that receptacle go back to a 240V breaker, properly installed in the panel, it would be very unusual to see anything but 240V at the receptacle.
However if the wires for that receptacle are terminated on two breakers that are both on L1 or both on L2, you will see just what you're seeing.
There may be other possibilities, including something wrong in the wiring between the breaker and the receptacle.
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
I bet if you go to your service panel, you're going to find a completely full service panel, and a unique creature we call a "double-stuff breaker". Quite likely the landlord does his own electrical work or pays a dumb handyman (naughty naughty). He's out of space in the panel, so he resorted to those double-stuffs.
He moved the dryer from a 2-pole breaker (which takes 2 spaces) to a duplex breaker that takes only one. Didn't notice the duplex sides can turned off individually, making them unfit for dryer use.
Since this is a rental, you can't fix any of this. Most jurisdictions require commercial work be done only by licensed electricians, and rental properties are considered commercial. You can't, he can't, his handyman can't. A pro electrician is required.
Given this level of incompetence, I would not advise trusting that circuit. The obsolete and dangerous 3-prong connections absolutely rely on the neutral wire being intact and not broken. If neutral breaks, the chassis of the dryer becomes electrified and can kill you, especially as you are handling wet things and touching both dryer (electrified) and washer (grounded).
But since he must fix it, he should consider bringing in someone competent, and upgrading the circuit to modern, safe NEMA 14 standard. This will require you change the dryer plug (back to what it was shipped with), but will be much safer for your family.
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
I bet if you go to your service panel, you're going to find a completely full service panel, and a unique creature we call a "double-stuff breaker". Quite likely the landlord does his own electrical work or pays a dumb handyman (naughty naughty). He's out of space in the panel, so he resorted to those double-stuffs.
He moved the dryer from a 2-pole breaker (which takes 2 spaces) to a duplex breaker that takes only one. Didn't notice the duplex sides can turned off individually, making them unfit for dryer use.
Since this is a rental, you can't fix any of this. Most jurisdictions require commercial work be done only by licensed electricians, and rental properties are considered commercial. You can't, he can't, his handyman can't. A pro electrician is required.
Given this level of incompetence, I would not advise trusting that circuit. The obsolete and dangerous 3-prong connections absolutely rely on the neutral wire being intact and not broken. If neutral breaks, the chassis of the dryer becomes electrified and can kill you, especially as you are handling wet things and touching both dryer (electrified) and washer (grounded).
But since he must fix it, he should consider bringing in someone competent, and upgrading the circuit to modern, safe NEMA 14 standard. This will require you change the dryer plug (back to what it was shipped with), but will be much safer for your family.
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
up vote
3
down vote
I bet if you go to your service panel, you're going to find a completely full service panel, and a unique creature we call a "double-stuff breaker". Quite likely the landlord does his own electrical work or pays a dumb handyman (naughty naughty). He's out of space in the panel, so he resorted to those double-stuffs.
He moved the dryer from a 2-pole breaker (which takes 2 spaces) to a duplex breaker that takes only one. Didn't notice the duplex sides can turned off individually, making them unfit for dryer use.
Since this is a rental, you can't fix any of this. Most jurisdictions require commercial work be done only by licensed electricians, and rental properties are considered commercial. You can't, he can't, his handyman can't. A pro electrician is required.
Given this level of incompetence, I would not advise trusting that circuit. The obsolete and dangerous 3-prong connections absolutely rely on the neutral wire being intact and not broken. If neutral breaks, the chassis of the dryer becomes electrified and can kill you, especially as you are handling wet things and touching both dryer (electrified) and washer (grounded).
But since he must fix it, he should consider bringing in someone competent, and upgrading the circuit to modern, safe NEMA 14 standard. This will require you change the dryer plug (back to what it was shipped with), but will be much safer for your family.
I bet if you go to your service panel, you're going to find a completely full service panel, and a unique creature we call a "double-stuff breaker". Quite likely the landlord does his own electrical work or pays a dumb handyman (naughty naughty). He's out of space in the panel, so he resorted to those double-stuffs.
He moved the dryer from a 2-pole breaker (which takes 2 spaces) to a duplex breaker that takes only one. Didn't notice the duplex sides can turned off individually, making them unfit for dryer use.
Since this is a rental, you can't fix any of this. Most jurisdictions require commercial work be done only by licensed electricians, and rental properties are considered commercial. You can't, he can't, his handyman can't. A pro electrician is required.
Given this level of incompetence, I would not advise trusting that circuit. The obsolete and dangerous 3-prong connections absolutely rely on the neutral wire being intact and not broken. If neutral breaks, the chassis of the dryer becomes electrified and can kill you, especially as you are handling wet things and touching both dryer (electrified) and washer (grounded).
But since he must fix it, he should consider bringing in someone competent, and upgrading the circuit to modern, safe NEMA 14 standard. This will require you change the dryer plug (back to what it was shipped with), but will be much safer for your family.
answered 2 hours ago
Harper
58.2k336118
58.2k336118
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up vote
1
down vote
One possibility is that the two hots, labelled X and Y, are on the same line.
The 240V electrical service typical in the US is a three wire Edison circuit, with two of the service wires, commonly designated L1 and L2, are at 240VAC at 60Hz, with the neutral tapped midway between the two - 120V L1 to N and 120V L2 to N - and the neutral is grounded.
In your electrical panel, a 240V 2-pole breaker will attach to bus bars that are each in turn connected to L1 and L2. So the two poles of the breaker are at 240V.
If the wires at that receptacle go back to a 240V breaker, properly installed in the panel, it would be very unusual to see anything but 240V at the receptacle.
However if the wires for that receptacle are terminated on two breakers that are both on L1 or both on L2, you will see just what you're seeing.
There may be other possibilities, including something wrong in the wiring between the breaker and the receptacle.
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
One possibility is that the two hots, labelled X and Y, are on the same line.
The 240V electrical service typical in the US is a three wire Edison circuit, with two of the service wires, commonly designated L1 and L2, are at 240VAC at 60Hz, with the neutral tapped midway between the two - 120V L1 to N and 120V L2 to N - and the neutral is grounded.
In your electrical panel, a 240V 2-pole breaker will attach to bus bars that are each in turn connected to L1 and L2. So the two poles of the breaker are at 240V.
If the wires at that receptacle go back to a 240V breaker, properly installed in the panel, it would be very unusual to see anything but 240V at the receptacle.
However if the wires for that receptacle are terminated on two breakers that are both on L1 or both on L2, you will see just what you're seeing.
There may be other possibilities, including something wrong in the wiring between the breaker and the receptacle.
add a comment |Â
up vote
1
down vote
up vote
1
down vote
One possibility is that the two hots, labelled X and Y, are on the same line.
The 240V electrical service typical in the US is a three wire Edison circuit, with two of the service wires, commonly designated L1 and L2, are at 240VAC at 60Hz, with the neutral tapped midway between the two - 120V L1 to N and 120V L2 to N - and the neutral is grounded.
In your electrical panel, a 240V 2-pole breaker will attach to bus bars that are each in turn connected to L1 and L2. So the two poles of the breaker are at 240V.
If the wires at that receptacle go back to a 240V breaker, properly installed in the panel, it would be very unusual to see anything but 240V at the receptacle.
However if the wires for that receptacle are terminated on two breakers that are both on L1 or both on L2, you will see just what you're seeing.
There may be other possibilities, including something wrong in the wiring between the breaker and the receptacle.
One possibility is that the two hots, labelled X and Y, are on the same line.
The 240V electrical service typical in the US is a three wire Edison circuit, with two of the service wires, commonly designated L1 and L2, are at 240VAC at 60Hz, with the neutral tapped midway between the two - 120V L1 to N and 120V L2 to N - and the neutral is grounded.
In your electrical panel, a 240V 2-pole breaker will attach to bus bars that are each in turn connected to L1 and L2. So the two poles of the breaker are at 240V.
If the wires at that receptacle go back to a 240V breaker, properly installed in the panel, it would be very unusual to see anything but 240V at the receptacle.
However if the wires for that receptacle are terminated on two breakers that are both on L1 or both on L2, you will see just what you're seeing.
There may be other possibilities, including something wrong in the wiring between the breaker and the receptacle.
answered 2 hours ago
batsplatsterson
6,5071021
6,5071021
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