What caused these strange patches on developed film negatives?

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I'm getting strange patches on film negative. Sometimes they are very big, but they also seem to appear along the border of the film.



I've just CLAed my camera. MY fixer is very recent so I'm not sure what the problem is.



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    up vote
    6
    down vote

    favorite












    I'm getting strange patches on film negative. Sometimes they are very big, but they also seem to appear along the border of the film.



    I've just CLAed my camera. MY fixer is very recent so I'm not sure what the problem is.



    enter image description here










    share|improve this question

























      up vote
      6
      down vote

      favorite









      up vote
      6
      down vote

      favorite











      I'm getting strange patches on film negative. Sometimes they are very big, but they also seem to appear along the border of the film.



      I've just CLAed my camera. MY fixer is very recent so I'm not sure what the problem is.



      enter image description here










      share|improve this question















      I'm getting strange patches on film negative. Sometimes they are very big, but they also seem to appear along the border of the film.



      I've just CLAed my camera. MY fixer is very recent so I'm not sure what the problem is.



      enter image description here







      film developing negative-film






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      edited Sep 5 at 19:19









      mattdm

      116k37336630




      116k37336630










      asked Sep 5 at 17:55









      Bob

      1,04652240




      1,04652240




















          2 Answers
          2






          active

          oldest

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          up vote
          11
          down vote













          When we develop film, we must take care that the film is properly wound on the developing spool. This is an example of improper loading of the spool. On the reel, the film is coiled so that it can be process using only a small light-tight tank. Improper windings allow the film to touch. Film in close contact will stick together. Once wet, the gelatin that coats both sides of the film sticks firmly preventing fluids from penetrating. You can attempt to mitigate by swishing the film in fixer. This will clear the opaque areas but likely the developer was unable to infuse thus those areas will be void of an image.



          You need to sacrifice a roll or two, practicing loading the reel in the light and then again and again with your eyes closed. You can’t practice with a roll indefinitely as loading and unloading damages the natural curl of the film. In other words, you will need to sacrifice several rolls to truly get the hang of the loading procedure.



          On another note: Once you finish the learning curve, save the film, it can be used to test the developer and fixer. Cut the films into snippets about 2 inches (50mm) long. You can swish one in a sauce cup of developer and in the light, watch it blacken. While not a perfect test of the developer, you will know that it is a developer and that it still has some life. You can also test the fixer to prove it’s alive. Swish a snippet in fixer and watch in the light as it changes from opaque to milky to clear. The correct fix time is always twice as long as it takes for the snippet to go transparent.






          share|improve this answer






















          • When I read title of the question I immediately pictured pink splotches. Been there, done that.
            – Pete Becker
            Sep 5 at 18:51











          • Yup. Some reels were easier to load than others. I liked the stainless steel spirals best. The ones with a ratchet where the film slides into the groove from the outer end had to be absolutely dry, and the film couldn't be too curled. I don't miss those days. Digits sensors are so much nicer, and better.
            – Olin Lathrop
            Sep 5 at 23:43

















          up vote
          1
          down vote













          The film was touching. While on the reel. No
          Chemical was able to process it.






          share|improve this answer




















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            2 Answers
            2






            active

            oldest

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            2 Answers
            2






            active

            oldest

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            up vote
            11
            down vote













            When we develop film, we must take care that the film is properly wound on the developing spool. This is an example of improper loading of the spool. On the reel, the film is coiled so that it can be process using only a small light-tight tank. Improper windings allow the film to touch. Film in close contact will stick together. Once wet, the gelatin that coats both sides of the film sticks firmly preventing fluids from penetrating. You can attempt to mitigate by swishing the film in fixer. This will clear the opaque areas but likely the developer was unable to infuse thus those areas will be void of an image.



            You need to sacrifice a roll or two, practicing loading the reel in the light and then again and again with your eyes closed. You can’t practice with a roll indefinitely as loading and unloading damages the natural curl of the film. In other words, you will need to sacrifice several rolls to truly get the hang of the loading procedure.



            On another note: Once you finish the learning curve, save the film, it can be used to test the developer and fixer. Cut the films into snippets about 2 inches (50mm) long. You can swish one in a sauce cup of developer and in the light, watch it blacken. While not a perfect test of the developer, you will know that it is a developer and that it still has some life. You can also test the fixer to prove it’s alive. Swish a snippet in fixer and watch in the light as it changes from opaque to milky to clear. The correct fix time is always twice as long as it takes for the snippet to go transparent.






            share|improve this answer






















            • When I read title of the question I immediately pictured pink splotches. Been there, done that.
              – Pete Becker
              Sep 5 at 18:51











            • Yup. Some reels were easier to load than others. I liked the stainless steel spirals best. The ones with a ratchet where the film slides into the groove from the outer end had to be absolutely dry, and the film couldn't be too curled. I don't miss those days. Digits sensors are so much nicer, and better.
              – Olin Lathrop
              Sep 5 at 23:43














            up vote
            11
            down vote













            When we develop film, we must take care that the film is properly wound on the developing spool. This is an example of improper loading of the spool. On the reel, the film is coiled so that it can be process using only a small light-tight tank. Improper windings allow the film to touch. Film in close contact will stick together. Once wet, the gelatin that coats both sides of the film sticks firmly preventing fluids from penetrating. You can attempt to mitigate by swishing the film in fixer. This will clear the opaque areas but likely the developer was unable to infuse thus those areas will be void of an image.



            You need to sacrifice a roll or two, practicing loading the reel in the light and then again and again with your eyes closed. You can’t practice with a roll indefinitely as loading and unloading damages the natural curl of the film. In other words, you will need to sacrifice several rolls to truly get the hang of the loading procedure.



            On another note: Once you finish the learning curve, save the film, it can be used to test the developer and fixer. Cut the films into snippets about 2 inches (50mm) long. You can swish one in a sauce cup of developer and in the light, watch it blacken. While not a perfect test of the developer, you will know that it is a developer and that it still has some life. You can also test the fixer to prove it’s alive. Swish a snippet in fixer and watch in the light as it changes from opaque to milky to clear. The correct fix time is always twice as long as it takes for the snippet to go transparent.






            share|improve this answer






















            • When I read title of the question I immediately pictured pink splotches. Been there, done that.
              – Pete Becker
              Sep 5 at 18:51











            • Yup. Some reels were easier to load than others. I liked the stainless steel spirals best. The ones with a ratchet where the film slides into the groove from the outer end had to be absolutely dry, and the film couldn't be too curled. I don't miss those days. Digits sensors are so much nicer, and better.
              – Olin Lathrop
              Sep 5 at 23:43












            up vote
            11
            down vote










            up vote
            11
            down vote









            When we develop film, we must take care that the film is properly wound on the developing spool. This is an example of improper loading of the spool. On the reel, the film is coiled so that it can be process using only a small light-tight tank. Improper windings allow the film to touch. Film in close contact will stick together. Once wet, the gelatin that coats both sides of the film sticks firmly preventing fluids from penetrating. You can attempt to mitigate by swishing the film in fixer. This will clear the opaque areas but likely the developer was unable to infuse thus those areas will be void of an image.



            You need to sacrifice a roll or two, practicing loading the reel in the light and then again and again with your eyes closed. You can’t practice with a roll indefinitely as loading and unloading damages the natural curl of the film. In other words, you will need to sacrifice several rolls to truly get the hang of the loading procedure.



            On another note: Once you finish the learning curve, save the film, it can be used to test the developer and fixer. Cut the films into snippets about 2 inches (50mm) long. You can swish one in a sauce cup of developer and in the light, watch it blacken. While not a perfect test of the developer, you will know that it is a developer and that it still has some life. You can also test the fixer to prove it’s alive. Swish a snippet in fixer and watch in the light as it changes from opaque to milky to clear. The correct fix time is always twice as long as it takes for the snippet to go transparent.






            share|improve this answer














            When we develop film, we must take care that the film is properly wound on the developing spool. This is an example of improper loading of the spool. On the reel, the film is coiled so that it can be process using only a small light-tight tank. Improper windings allow the film to touch. Film in close contact will stick together. Once wet, the gelatin that coats both sides of the film sticks firmly preventing fluids from penetrating. You can attempt to mitigate by swishing the film in fixer. This will clear the opaque areas but likely the developer was unable to infuse thus those areas will be void of an image.



            You need to sacrifice a roll or two, practicing loading the reel in the light and then again and again with your eyes closed. You can’t practice with a roll indefinitely as loading and unloading damages the natural curl of the film. In other words, you will need to sacrifice several rolls to truly get the hang of the loading procedure.



            On another note: Once you finish the learning curve, save the film, it can be used to test the developer and fixer. Cut the films into snippets about 2 inches (50mm) long. You can swish one in a sauce cup of developer and in the light, watch it blacken. While not a perfect test of the developer, you will know that it is a developer and that it still has some life. You can also test the fixer to prove it’s alive. Swish a snippet in fixer and watch in the light as it changes from opaque to milky to clear. The correct fix time is always twice as long as it takes for the snippet to go transparent.







            share|improve this answer














            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer








            edited Sep 5 at 20:00









            Michael Clark

            121k7137340




            121k7137340










            answered Sep 5 at 18:44









            Alan Marcus

            23.1k12654




            23.1k12654











            • When I read title of the question I immediately pictured pink splotches. Been there, done that.
              – Pete Becker
              Sep 5 at 18:51











            • Yup. Some reels were easier to load than others. I liked the stainless steel spirals best. The ones with a ratchet where the film slides into the groove from the outer end had to be absolutely dry, and the film couldn't be too curled. I don't miss those days. Digits sensors are so much nicer, and better.
              – Olin Lathrop
              Sep 5 at 23:43
















            • When I read title of the question I immediately pictured pink splotches. Been there, done that.
              – Pete Becker
              Sep 5 at 18:51











            • Yup. Some reels were easier to load than others. I liked the stainless steel spirals best. The ones with a ratchet where the film slides into the groove from the outer end had to be absolutely dry, and the film couldn't be too curled. I don't miss those days. Digits sensors are so much nicer, and better.
              – Olin Lathrop
              Sep 5 at 23:43















            When I read title of the question I immediately pictured pink splotches. Been there, done that.
            – Pete Becker
            Sep 5 at 18:51





            When I read title of the question I immediately pictured pink splotches. Been there, done that.
            – Pete Becker
            Sep 5 at 18:51













            Yup. Some reels were easier to load than others. I liked the stainless steel spirals best. The ones with a ratchet where the film slides into the groove from the outer end had to be absolutely dry, and the film couldn't be too curled. I don't miss those days. Digits sensors are so much nicer, and better.
            – Olin Lathrop
            Sep 5 at 23:43




            Yup. Some reels were easier to load than others. I liked the stainless steel spirals best. The ones with a ratchet where the film slides into the groove from the outer end had to be absolutely dry, and the film couldn't be too curled. I don't miss those days. Digits sensors are so much nicer, and better.
            – Olin Lathrop
            Sep 5 at 23:43












            up vote
            1
            down vote













            The film was touching. While on the reel. No
            Chemical was able to process it.






            share|improve this answer
























              up vote
              1
              down vote













              The film was touching. While on the reel. No
              Chemical was able to process it.






              share|improve this answer






















                up vote
                1
                down vote










                up vote
                1
                down vote









                The film was touching. While on the reel. No
                Chemical was able to process it.






                share|improve this answer












                The film was touching. While on the reel. No
                Chemical was able to process it.







                share|improve this answer












                share|improve this answer



                share|improve this answer










                answered Sep 6 at 1:34









                Joe

                111




                111



























                     

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