Pier foundation and water table issue
Clash Royale CLAN TAG#URR8PPP
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I am in the process of building a small (14x14) log cabin in the woods on a pier foundation:
After marking the perimeter, I began excavating the soil and dug to below the frost line (36"). The plan is to have 18" above the soil and 3 feet below. The soil is a mix of sand and clay. When I returned the next day, the hole had filled with water:
To save money, I intended to make the piers out of 90% broken concrete chunks (urbanite), mixed with new concrete to hold the broken chunks in place. Now, I'm considering pouring bags of concrete in the hole until I get the right consistency, then plopping chunks in there until I fill the form.
Is this a bad idea? Is it a problem that my pier blocks will be perpetually exposed to water? Do I need to move the location of the cabin to some place higher?
Note that I intend this to be "off grid": no plumbing, no HVAC (other than a wood stove), and maybe electricity run off a generator.
Thanks in advance!
water concrete foundation pier-blocks
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up vote
1
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favorite
I am in the process of building a small (14x14) log cabin in the woods on a pier foundation:
After marking the perimeter, I began excavating the soil and dug to below the frost line (36"). The plan is to have 18" above the soil and 3 feet below. The soil is a mix of sand and clay. When I returned the next day, the hole had filled with water:
To save money, I intended to make the piers out of 90% broken concrete chunks (urbanite), mixed with new concrete to hold the broken chunks in place. Now, I'm considering pouring bags of concrete in the hole until I get the right consistency, then plopping chunks in there until I fill the form.
Is this a bad idea? Is it a problem that my pier blocks will be perpetually exposed to water? Do I need to move the location of the cabin to some place higher?
Note that I intend this to be "off grid": no plumbing, no HVAC (other than a wood stove), and maybe electricity run off a generator.
Thanks in advance!
water concrete foundation pier-blocks
2
Any concrete foundation is perpetually exposed to water. This can actually make it stronger by ensuring adequate curing moisture. Your question about concrete mix is unclear. Ground concrete as 90% of the recipe doesn't sound good. Now if you meant 90% ground concrete and 10% portland cement, maybe. I'm not sure I get your second idea.
â isherwood
5 hours ago
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up vote
1
down vote
favorite
up vote
1
down vote
favorite
I am in the process of building a small (14x14) log cabin in the woods on a pier foundation:
After marking the perimeter, I began excavating the soil and dug to below the frost line (36"). The plan is to have 18" above the soil and 3 feet below. The soil is a mix of sand and clay. When I returned the next day, the hole had filled with water:
To save money, I intended to make the piers out of 90% broken concrete chunks (urbanite), mixed with new concrete to hold the broken chunks in place. Now, I'm considering pouring bags of concrete in the hole until I get the right consistency, then plopping chunks in there until I fill the form.
Is this a bad idea? Is it a problem that my pier blocks will be perpetually exposed to water? Do I need to move the location of the cabin to some place higher?
Note that I intend this to be "off grid": no plumbing, no HVAC (other than a wood stove), and maybe electricity run off a generator.
Thanks in advance!
water concrete foundation pier-blocks
I am in the process of building a small (14x14) log cabin in the woods on a pier foundation:
After marking the perimeter, I began excavating the soil and dug to below the frost line (36"). The plan is to have 18" above the soil and 3 feet below. The soil is a mix of sand and clay. When I returned the next day, the hole had filled with water:
To save money, I intended to make the piers out of 90% broken concrete chunks (urbanite), mixed with new concrete to hold the broken chunks in place. Now, I'm considering pouring bags of concrete in the hole until I get the right consistency, then plopping chunks in there until I fill the form.
Is this a bad idea? Is it a problem that my pier blocks will be perpetually exposed to water? Do I need to move the location of the cabin to some place higher?
Note that I intend this to be "off grid": no plumbing, no HVAC (other than a wood stove), and maybe electricity run off a generator.
Thanks in advance!
water concrete foundation pier-blocks
water concrete foundation pier-blocks
asked 5 hours ago
dfife
14718
14718
2
Any concrete foundation is perpetually exposed to water. This can actually make it stronger by ensuring adequate curing moisture. Your question about concrete mix is unclear. Ground concrete as 90% of the recipe doesn't sound good. Now if you meant 90% ground concrete and 10% portland cement, maybe. I'm not sure I get your second idea.
â isherwood
5 hours ago
add a comment |Â
2
Any concrete foundation is perpetually exposed to water. This can actually make it stronger by ensuring adequate curing moisture. Your question about concrete mix is unclear. Ground concrete as 90% of the recipe doesn't sound good. Now if you meant 90% ground concrete and 10% portland cement, maybe. I'm not sure I get your second idea.
â isherwood
5 hours ago
2
2
Any concrete foundation is perpetually exposed to water. This can actually make it stronger by ensuring adequate curing moisture. Your question about concrete mix is unclear. Ground concrete as 90% of the recipe doesn't sound good. Now if you meant 90% ground concrete and 10% portland cement, maybe. I'm not sure I get your second idea.
â isherwood
5 hours ago
Any concrete foundation is perpetually exposed to water. This can actually make it stronger by ensuring adequate curing moisture. Your question about concrete mix is unclear. Ground concrete as 90% of the recipe doesn't sound good. Now if you meant 90% ground concrete and 10% portland cement, maybe. I'm not sure I get your second idea.
â isherwood
5 hours ago
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
2
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up vote
3
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You have several issues: 1) Hold your building up, 2) keep your building stable (lateral stability) 3) freeze/thaw,
1) I would be careful to calculate the number of piers required to support such a heavy load as a log cabin. The piers have a small bearing area (perhaps as small as 12âÂÂx12âÂÂ) and your load is tremendous.
The benefit of a continuous footing is that it can span over a soft spot if necessary. With a pier foundation, each pier had better be on stable soil.
2) Urbanite (reuse of old concrete) is not appropriate for structural foundations. Tossing a bunch of concrete chunks into a form is not going to give you any reliable strength. Concrete mixes have carefully proportioned amounts of materials. âÂÂRandomâ is not safe.
Concrete foundations resist various loads and you need to know what those loads are and provide the correct strength concrete.
Lateral loads are a major concern for your âÂÂelevatedâ house. You didnâÂÂt mention rebar. ANY lateral load would be resisted with carefully placed reinforcing steel. Dumping used concrete into the forms does not allow rebar to be located properly.
3) Of major concern is having chunks of old concrete exposed on the edges of the piers allowing water to penetrate the piers. Then, when it freezes the pier will be broken apart.
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
I don't think you'll find anyone that recommends mixing concrete in the hole - you can't really be sure of a good even mix this way - but people do it for fences and other posts all the time and it seems to work OK.
With 90% urbanite (recycled scrap concrete chunks) I might want to be a little more careful, an unevenly mixed section could weaken the post a bit. The percentage seems very high. But this looks pretty overbuilt so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Is that actually 9 piers for a 14'x14' cabin? That's not far from being a slab...
add a comment |Â
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
3
down vote
You have several issues: 1) Hold your building up, 2) keep your building stable (lateral stability) 3) freeze/thaw,
1) I would be careful to calculate the number of piers required to support such a heavy load as a log cabin. The piers have a small bearing area (perhaps as small as 12âÂÂx12âÂÂ) and your load is tremendous.
The benefit of a continuous footing is that it can span over a soft spot if necessary. With a pier foundation, each pier had better be on stable soil.
2) Urbanite (reuse of old concrete) is not appropriate for structural foundations. Tossing a bunch of concrete chunks into a form is not going to give you any reliable strength. Concrete mixes have carefully proportioned amounts of materials. âÂÂRandomâ is not safe.
Concrete foundations resist various loads and you need to know what those loads are and provide the correct strength concrete.
Lateral loads are a major concern for your âÂÂelevatedâ house. You didnâÂÂt mention rebar. ANY lateral load would be resisted with carefully placed reinforcing steel. Dumping used concrete into the forms does not allow rebar to be located properly.
3) Of major concern is having chunks of old concrete exposed on the edges of the piers allowing water to penetrate the piers. Then, when it freezes the pier will be broken apart.
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
You have several issues: 1) Hold your building up, 2) keep your building stable (lateral stability) 3) freeze/thaw,
1) I would be careful to calculate the number of piers required to support such a heavy load as a log cabin. The piers have a small bearing area (perhaps as small as 12âÂÂx12âÂÂ) and your load is tremendous.
The benefit of a continuous footing is that it can span over a soft spot if necessary. With a pier foundation, each pier had better be on stable soil.
2) Urbanite (reuse of old concrete) is not appropriate for structural foundations. Tossing a bunch of concrete chunks into a form is not going to give you any reliable strength. Concrete mixes have carefully proportioned amounts of materials. âÂÂRandomâ is not safe.
Concrete foundations resist various loads and you need to know what those loads are and provide the correct strength concrete.
Lateral loads are a major concern for your âÂÂelevatedâ house. You didnâÂÂt mention rebar. ANY lateral load would be resisted with carefully placed reinforcing steel. Dumping used concrete into the forms does not allow rebar to be located properly.
3) Of major concern is having chunks of old concrete exposed on the edges of the piers allowing water to penetrate the piers. Then, when it freezes the pier will be broken apart.
add a comment |Â
up vote
3
down vote
up vote
3
down vote
You have several issues: 1) Hold your building up, 2) keep your building stable (lateral stability) 3) freeze/thaw,
1) I would be careful to calculate the number of piers required to support such a heavy load as a log cabin. The piers have a small bearing area (perhaps as small as 12âÂÂx12âÂÂ) and your load is tremendous.
The benefit of a continuous footing is that it can span over a soft spot if necessary. With a pier foundation, each pier had better be on stable soil.
2) Urbanite (reuse of old concrete) is not appropriate for structural foundations. Tossing a bunch of concrete chunks into a form is not going to give you any reliable strength. Concrete mixes have carefully proportioned amounts of materials. âÂÂRandomâ is not safe.
Concrete foundations resist various loads and you need to know what those loads are and provide the correct strength concrete.
Lateral loads are a major concern for your âÂÂelevatedâ house. You didnâÂÂt mention rebar. ANY lateral load would be resisted with carefully placed reinforcing steel. Dumping used concrete into the forms does not allow rebar to be located properly.
3) Of major concern is having chunks of old concrete exposed on the edges of the piers allowing water to penetrate the piers. Then, when it freezes the pier will be broken apart.
You have several issues: 1) Hold your building up, 2) keep your building stable (lateral stability) 3) freeze/thaw,
1) I would be careful to calculate the number of piers required to support such a heavy load as a log cabin. The piers have a small bearing area (perhaps as small as 12âÂÂx12âÂÂ) and your load is tremendous.
The benefit of a continuous footing is that it can span over a soft spot if necessary. With a pier foundation, each pier had better be on stable soil.
2) Urbanite (reuse of old concrete) is not appropriate for structural foundations. Tossing a bunch of concrete chunks into a form is not going to give you any reliable strength. Concrete mixes have carefully proportioned amounts of materials. âÂÂRandomâ is not safe.
Concrete foundations resist various loads and you need to know what those loads are and provide the correct strength concrete.
Lateral loads are a major concern for your âÂÂelevatedâ house. You didnâÂÂt mention rebar. ANY lateral load would be resisted with carefully placed reinforcing steel. Dumping used concrete into the forms does not allow rebar to be located properly.
3) Of major concern is having chunks of old concrete exposed on the edges of the piers allowing water to penetrate the piers. Then, when it freezes the pier will be broken apart.
answered 3 hours ago
Lee Sam
8,2503613
8,2503613
add a comment |Â
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
I don't think you'll find anyone that recommends mixing concrete in the hole - you can't really be sure of a good even mix this way - but people do it for fences and other posts all the time and it seems to work OK.
With 90% urbanite (recycled scrap concrete chunks) I might want to be a little more careful, an unevenly mixed section could weaken the post a bit. The percentage seems very high. But this looks pretty overbuilt so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Is that actually 9 piers for a 14'x14' cabin? That's not far from being a slab...
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
I don't think you'll find anyone that recommends mixing concrete in the hole - you can't really be sure of a good even mix this way - but people do it for fences and other posts all the time and it seems to work OK.
With 90% urbanite (recycled scrap concrete chunks) I might want to be a little more careful, an unevenly mixed section could weaken the post a bit. The percentage seems very high. But this looks pretty overbuilt so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Is that actually 9 piers for a 14'x14' cabin? That's not far from being a slab...
add a comment |Â
up vote
2
down vote
up vote
2
down vote
I don't think you'll find anyone that recommends mixing concrete in the hole - you can't really be sure of a good even mix this way - but people do it for fences and other posts all the time and it seems to work OK.
With 90% urbanite (recycled scrap concrete chunks) I might want to be a little more careful, an unevenly mixed section could weaken the post a bit. The percentage seems very high. But this looks pretty overbuilt so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Is that actually 9 piers for a 14'x14' cabin? That's not far from being a slab...
I don't think you'll find anyone that recommends mixing concrete in the hole - you can't really be sure of a good even mix this way - but people do it for fences and other posts all the time and it seems to work OK.
With 90% urbanite (recycled scrap concrete chunks) I might want to be a little more careful, an unevenly mixed section could weaken the post a bit. The percentage seems very high. But this looks pretty overbuilt so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Is that actually 9 piers for a 14'x14' cabin? That's not far from being a slab...
answered 4 hours ago
batsplatsterson
6,7621022
6,7621022
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2
Any concrete foundation is perpetually exposed to water. This can actually make it stronger by ensuring adequate curing moisture. Your question about concrete mix is unclear. Ground concrete as 90% of the recipe doesn't sound good. Now if you meant 90% ground concrete and 10% portland cement, maybe. I'm not sure I get your second idea.
â isherwood
5 hours ago