How to solder a 70 °C (158 °F) thermofuse

The name of the pictureThe name of the pictureThe name of the pictureClash Royale CLAN TAG#URR8PPP











up vote
1
down vote

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For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered a temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).



The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).



But how should I solder this component?



enter image description here










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  • 3




    You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
    – Ï„εκ
    1 hour ago










  • @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
    – Michel Keijzers
    1 hour ago






  • 1




    The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
    – Janka
    59 mins ago






  • 1




    Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
    – Bort
    44 mins ago










  • @Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
    – Michel Keijzers
    27 mins ago














up vote
1
down vote

favorite












For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered a temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).



The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).



But how should I solder this component?



enter image description here










share|improve this question



















  • 3




    You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
    – Ï„εκ
    1 hour ago










  • @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
    – Michel Keijzers
    1 hour ago






  • 1




    The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
    – Janka
    59 mins ago






  • 1




    Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
    – Bort
    44 mins ago










  • @Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
    – Michel Keijzers
    27 mins ago












up vote
1
down vote

favorite









up vote
1
down vote

favorite











For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered a temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).



The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).



But how should I solder this component?



enter image description here










share|improve this question















For my DMX project (schematics is not important), I soldered a temperature fuse which has just two leads (see picture below).



The fuse doesn't work (meaning it does not conduct electricity) ... which of course is logical since my soldering station has a minimum temperature of 200 °C (392 °F) (although I soldered it with 350 °C (662 °F), forgetting about this).



But how should I solder this component?



enter image description here







soldering fuses thermal






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 27 mins ago

























asked 1 hour ago









Michel Keijzers

4,93862153




4,93862153







  • 3




    You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
    – Ï„εκ
    1 hour ago










  • @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
    – Michel Keijzers
    1 hour ago






  • 1




    The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
    – Janka
    59 mins ago






  • 1




    Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
    – Bort
    44 mins ago










  • @Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
    – Michel Keijzers
    27 mins ago












  • 3




    You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
    – Ï„εκ
    1 hour ago










  • @τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
    – Michel Keijzers
    1 hour ago






  • 1




    The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
    – Janka
    59 mins ago






  • 1




    Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
    – Bort
    44 mins ago










  • @Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
    – Michel Keijzers
    27 mins ago







3




3




You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ï„εκ
1 hour ago




You should be able to solder it as long as you solder quickly and only at the very end of the leads.
– Ï„εκ
1 hour ago












@τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago




@τεκ Thanks, I'm afraid that is not possible due lack of space but I will use it in future projects when possible again.
– Michel Keijzers
1 hour ago




1




1




The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
59 mins ago




The thermofuses I saw in various appliances had always been crimped for that very reason.
– Janka
59 mins ago




1




1




Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
– Bort
44 mins ago




Can you define "didn't work"? I imagine it didn't conduct electricity?
– Bort
44 mins ago












@Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
– Michel Keijzers
27 mins ago




@Bort true ... it did not conduct electricity.
– Michel Keijzers
27 mins ago










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes

















up vote
3
down vote



accepted










I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.






share|improve this answer




















  • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
    – Michel Keijzers
    57 mins ago

















up vote
2
down vote













You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here






share|improve this answer




















  • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
    – Michel Keijzers
    1 hour ago

















up vote
2
down vote













This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



enter image description here



Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.






share|improve this answer




















  • Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
    – Michel Keijzers
    55 mins ago










  • With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
    – Phil G
    47 mins ago

















up vote
0
down vote













As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.





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    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes








    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes








    up vote
    3
    down vote



    accepted










    I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



    Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.






    share|improve this answer




















    • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
      – Michel Keijzers
      57 mins ago














    up vote
    3
    down vote



    accepted










    I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



    Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.






    share|improve this answer




















    • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
      – Michel Keijzers
      57 mins ago












    up vote
    3
    down vote



    accepted







    up vote
    3
    down vote



    accepted






    I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



    Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.






    share|improve this answer












    I think those thermal fuses are normally connected using crimp terminals, rather than by soldering.



    Even with the heatsinks the other answers mention, it would be much too easy to damage the device while soldering wires to it.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 58 mins ago









    Peter Bennett

    35k12661




    35k12661











    • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
      – Michel Keijzers
      57 mins ago
















    • I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
      – Michel Keijzers
      57 mins ago















    I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
    – Michel Keijzers
    57 mins ago




    I will find a way (like crimp terminals as you propose) to use them in my next project.
    – Michel Keijzers
    57 mins ago












    up vote
    2
    down vote













    You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here






    share|improve this answer




















    • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
      – Michel Keijzers
      1 hour ago














    up vote
    2
    down vote













    You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here






    share|improve this answer




















    • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
      – Michel Keijzers
      1 hour ago












    up vote
    2
    down vote










    up vote
    2
    down vote









    You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here






    share|improve this answer












    You can use a heat shunt - really just a pair of pliers on the lead, and keep the soldered joint as far away from the body as practical, but ideally use crimp joints, soldering these things is always tricky. enter image description here







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 1 hour ago









    Phil G

    3665




    3665











    • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
      – Michel Keijzers
      1 hour ago
















    • Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
      – Michel Keijzers
      1 hour ago















    Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
    – Michel Keijzers
    1 hour ago




    Hmm in my case as far away is not possible, since I have a lack of space (but I will refrain from using one in this project, maybe for the next :-) ... but good to know how to do it better.
    – Michel Keijzers
    1 hour ago










    up vote
    2
    down vote













    This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



    enter image description here



    Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



    Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.






    share|improve this answer




















    • Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
      – Michel Keijzers
      55 mins ago










    • With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
      – Phil G
      47 mins ago














    up vote
    2
    down vote













    This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



    enter image description here



    Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



    Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.






    share|improve this answer




















    • Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
      – Michel Keijzers
      55 mins ago










    • With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
      – Phil G
      47 mins ago












    up vote
    2
    down vote










    up vote
    2
    down vote









    This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



    enter image description here



    Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



    Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.






    share|improve this answer












    This was a problem with transistors in the early days and standard advice was to use a pliers as a heat shunt close to the body of the component.



    enter image description here



    Figure 1. Protecting a capacitor from overheating when using a big ignorant soldering gun. Image source: Mother Earth News.



    Oddly enough, the image above was the only one I could find in an image search. The technique may be getting lost. A long nosed pliers with a rubber band on the handles may suffice and the rubber band will hold it in place freeing up one hand.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 1 hour ago









    Transistor

    75.2k572164




    75.2k572164











    • Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
      – Michel Keijzers
      55 mins ago










    • With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
      – Phil G
      47 mins ago
















    • Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
      – Michel Keijzers
      55 mins ago










    • With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
      – Phil G
      47 mins ago















    Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
    – Michel Keijzers
    55 mins ago




    Thanks for this answer ... I already need some extra hands to keep the soldering iron, the item to be soldered, the wire that goes to it, and the solder itself :-) (I have a standing helping hand but also to use this seems even more complicated). I never seen this, but last year is the first time I soldered a bit more seriously.
    – Michel Keijzers
    55 mins ago












    With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
    – Phil G
    47 mins ago




    With the prevalence of reflowing joints on SMDs many components are more tolerant of the short term heatint than used to be the case, particularly with leaded caps that may have soldered joints internally, but obviously thermal fuses are a special case.
    – Phil G
    47 mins ago










    up vote
    0
    down vote













    As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



    Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



    Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



    Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.





    share
























      up vote
      0
      down vote













      As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



      Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



      Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



      Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.





      share






















        up vote
        0
        down vote










        up vote
        0
        down vote









        As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



        Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



        Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



        Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.





        share












        As was mentioned in other answers, crimp termination would be best. Followed by a pin or screw terminal.



        Since you seem stuck with the design and don't have space for a pair of heat sink pliers, there is one other option if you must solder it.



        Wrap the component as much as possible with a lightly damp kimwipe or other low lint cloth. Make sure it's distilled water and allow it to dry completely before energizing the circuit.



        Not ideal, but I've used it successfully in the past for tight spaces and heat sensitive parts. You may even be able to chill the water provided your fuse can handle cold without damage.






        share











        share


        share










        answered 4 mins ago









        Phil C

        9461117




        9461117



























             

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