35mm for portraits

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Ok everybody knows 35mm is not the most flattering focal length for a portrait and by portrait I mean somewhere from chest and above... and of course it gets worse as we get closer to the subject. So if I find myself in a situation that that 35mm is the only lens at hand and want to still make it work do you think one way would be if I go much farther back and shoot the subject knowing that later I am going to crop it much tighter? Would that help with less distortion?










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  • en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
    – osullic
    41 mins ago














up vote
2
down vote

favorite












Ok everybody knows 35mm is not the most flattering focal length for a portrait and by portrait I mean somewhere from chest and above... and of course it gets worse as we get closer to the subject. So if I find myself in a situation that that 35mm is the only lens at hand and want to still make it work do you think one way would be if I go much farther back and shoot the subject knowing that later I am going to crop it much tighter? Would that help with less distortion?










share|improve this question





















  • en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
    – osullic
    41 mins ago












up vote
2
down vote

favorite









up vote
2
down vote

favorite











Ok everybody knows 35mm is not the most flattering focal length for a portrait and by portrait I mean somewhere from chest and above... and of course it gets worse as we get closer to the subject. So if I find myself in a situation that that 35mm is the only lens at hand and want to still make it work do you think one way would be if I go much farther back and shoot the subject knowing that later I am going to crop it much tighter? Would that help with less distortion?










share|improve this question













Ok everybody knows 35mm is not the most flattering focal length for a portrait and by portrait I mean somewhere from chest and above... and of course it gets worse as we get closer to the subject. So if I find myself in a situation that that 35mm is the only lens at hand and want to still make it work do you think one way would be if I go much farther back and shoot the subject knowing that later I am going to crop it much tighter? Would that help with less distortion?







portrait focal-length






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asked 2 hours ago









Brandon

1,29051428




1,29051428











  • en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
    – osullic
    41 mins ago
















  • en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
    – osullic
    41 mins ago















en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
– osullic
41 mins ago




en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_portrait
– osullic
41 mins ago










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes

















up vote
2
down vote



accepted










Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.



The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).



We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.



For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.



But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.



You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.



Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.



Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.






share|improve this answer




















  • Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
    – Brandon
    46 mins ago










  • @Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
    – Michael Clark
    18 mins ago


















up vote
1
down vote













Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:



  1. Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.

  2. Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.

  3. (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.

Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.






share|improve this answer




















  • The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
    – Michael Clark
    1 hour ago










  • In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
    – Michael Clark
    1 hour ago










  • @MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
    – flolilolilo
    56 mins ago






  • 1




    @flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
    – Michael Clark
    28 mins ago






  • 1




    @Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
    – Michael Clark
    26 mins ago


















up vote
1
down vote













I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!



There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!



You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.



Take a look at this google search.



Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.



You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.




But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.






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    up vote
    0
    down vote













    The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
    Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.



    If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.






    share|improve this answer




















    • The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
      – Michael Clark
      58 mins ago










    Your Answer







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    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes








    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes








    up vote
    2
    down vote



    accepted










    Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.



    The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).



    We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.



    For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.



    But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.



    You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.



    Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.



    Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.






    share|improve this answer




















    • Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
      – Brandon
      46 mins ago










    • @Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
      – Michael Clark
      18 mins ago















    up vote
    2
    down vote



    accepted










    Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.



    The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).



    We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.



    For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.



    But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.



    You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.



    Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.



    Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.






    share|improve this answer




















    • Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
      – Brandon
      46 mins ago










    • @Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
      – Michael Clark
      18 mins ago













    up vote
    2
    down vote



    accepted







    up vote
    2
    down vote



    accepted






    Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.



    The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).



    We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.



    For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.



    But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.



    You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.



    Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.



    Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.






    share|improve this answer












    Yes, to a degree. The distance helps perspective, but the cropping can remove many pixels of image size.



    The key for portrait perspective is to stand back a bit. The camera standing back at least about six feet, and 8 or 10 feet is considered better in the formal studios. What focal length this could use for a desired field of view would depend on the camera sensor size. Use the focal length that gives the desired view when standing back, but it is the distance that fixes perspective (enlarged noses, etc).



    We guys may not ever notice the problem, and the ladies may not realize exactly why they don't like the picture, but they will like those standing back a bit better. It's more like their idea of their picture.



    For the 35 mm film format, the 105 mm lens was considered classically good for head and shoulders portraits, because the focal length required standing back at a good distance to see the view.



    But not all portraits are head and shoulder, some are chest and up, or waist and up, or some might be even full length standing portraits, or even group shots. It is OK to use a shorter lens for the wider view, as needed, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. I prefer 8 or 10 feet, which is necessarily a longer lens.



    You didn't mention sensor size, but most cameras today use a smaller sensor with shorter focal lengths to still get the same view. That's fine too, but standing back at least about six feet is still important. The right lens is the one that gives the desired view from the proper distance.



    Standing back and zooming in as desired for the view is fine, no problem. It can still be just a head shot if desired, but the key is standing back a bit.



    Standing back and then cropping for the field of view you want will help the perspective, but cropping costs many pixels, the image may not print as large then as you would like.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 1 hour ago









    WayneF

    9,4061924




    9,4061924











    • Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
      – Brandon
      46 mins ago










    • @Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
      – Michael Clark
      18 mins ago

















    • Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
      – Brandon
      46 mins ago










    • @Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
      – Michael Clark
      18 mins ago
















    Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
    – Brandon
    46 mins ago




    Thanks, yeah it is the 50 meg X1D camera so that's why I am thinking there would be enough resolution to crop when needed.
    – Brandon
    46 mins ago












    @Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
    – Michael Clark
    18 mins ago





    @Brandon Just keep in mind, a 2X linear crop reduces the areal image size (megapixels, resolution, whatever) by 4X. Cropping a shot taken with a 35mm lens to resemble a shot taken with a 70mm lens reduces 50MP to 12.5MP.
    – Michael Clark
    18 mins ago













    up vote
    1
    down vote













    Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:



    1. Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.

    2. Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.

    3. (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.

    Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.






    share|improve this answer




















    • The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
      – Michael Clark
      1 hour ago










    • In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
      – Michael Clark
      1 hour ago










    • @MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
      – flolilolilo
      56 mins ago






    • 1




      @flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
      – Michael Clark
      28 mins ago






    • 1




      @Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
      – Michael Clark
      26 mins ago















    up vote
    1
    down vote













    Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:



    1. Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.

    2. Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.

    3. (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.

    Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.






    share|improve this answer




















    • The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
      – Michael Clark
      1 hour ago










    • In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
      – Michael Clark
      1 hour ago










    • @MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
      – flolilolilo
      56 mins ago






    • 1




      @flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
      – Michael Clark
      28 mins ago






    • 1




      @Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
      – Michael Clark
      26 mins ago













    up vote
    1
    down vote










    up vote
    1
    down vote









    Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:



    1. Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.

    2. Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.

    3. (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.

    Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.






    share|improve this answer












    Yes, it would help, and it would be a feasible way if you need to have a "classic" portrait (i.e. flat faces). There are two down-sides to using the "wrong" focal length for portraits:



    1. Increased depth of field because of distance: Subject separation will probably not be as strong as with, say, a 100mm f/1.4 wide open.

    2. Image quality post-cropping: You will have to crop a lot, so noise will become more visible.

    3. (Optional) It will be harder to spot minor "defects" in the progress of the shooting: Most likely, you will have to check every picture after taking it for closed eyes, misfocus,... - things that you can spot more easily with an optical viewfinder when using the "proper" focal length.

    Still, if you have no other option and want a portrait with the "face-flatness" of a tele-lens, then increasing the distance at least a bit will be the best approach I can think of.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 1 hour ago









    flolilolilo

    3,99411332




    3,99411332











    • The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
      – Michael Clark
      1 hour ago










    • In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
      – Michael Clark
      1 hour ago










    • @MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
      – flolilolilo
      56 mins ago






    • 1




      @flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
      – Michael Clark
      28 mins ago






    • 1




      @Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
      – Michael Clark
      26 mins ago

















    • The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
      – Michael Clark
      1 hour ago










    • In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
      – Michael Clark
      1 hour ago










    • @MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
      – flolilolilo
      56 mins ago






    • 1




      @flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
      – Michael Clark
      28 mins ago






    • 1




      @Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
      – Michael Clark
      26 mins ago
















    The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
    – Michael Clark
    1 hour ago




    The depth of field is a red herring. Cropping has the same effect as using a smaller sensor/longer focal length to start with. The increased enlargement ratio has the same effect on magnification as a longer lens would. Ultimately, only total magnification and aperture determine DoF.
    – Michael Clark
    1 hour ago












    In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
    – Michael Clark
    1 hour ago




    In terms of perspective, the shooting distance determines everything. So whether one is using a 100mm lens from 12 feet or using a 20mm lens from 12 feet and cropping to the same FoV as the 100mm lens gives, the perspective will be the same as long as one is 12 feet from the subject.
    – Michael Clark
    1 hour ago












    @MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
    – flolilolilo
    56 mins ago




    @MichaelClark I'm not saying you are wrong, but...Why is hyperfocal distance a feature of focal length and aperture size, then, and not of the image circle, as well? Because the concept of "acceptable focus" is dependent on the magnification?
    – flolilolilo
    56 mins ago




    1




    1




    @flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
    – Michael Clark
    28 mins ago




    @flolilolilo Hyperfocal distance is also based on DoF. When the enlargement ratio changes, so does the hyperfocal distance for the same focal length, aperture, and sensor size. Lens markings are almost always based on the assumption of a 36x24mm image size enlarged to 8x10 inches for viewing at 12 inches. If any of those factors change, the hyperfocal also changes.
    – Michael Clark
    28 mins ago




    1




    1




    @Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
    – Michael Clark
    26 mins ago





    @Tetsujin If you back up twice as far with the 100/1.4 to frame the subject the same as you would have with the 50/1.4, there's a lot less difference than shooting from the same distance with both. Likewise, of you shoot at the same distance and crop the 50mm to match the FoV of the 100mm, you also decrease the DoF to roughly the same as the uncropped 100mm shot.
    – Michael Clark
    26 mins ago











    up vote
    1
    down vote













    I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!



    There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!



    You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.



    Take a look at this google search.



    Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.



    You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.




    But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.






    share|improve this answer


























      up vote
      1
      down vote













      I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!



      There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!



      You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.



      Take a look at this google search.



      Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.



      You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.




      But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.






      share|improve this answer
























        up vote
        1
        down vote










        up vote
        1
        down vote









        I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!



        There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!



        You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.



        Take a look at this google search.



        Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.



        You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.




        But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.






        share|improve this answer














        I disagree. Make your limitation your weapon!



        There are many, and I mean many types of portraits. A wide angle lens can give you another perspective, so USE IT!



        You have more room for the surroundings, use them. You have potentially more difference between sizes of planes, use them.



        Take a look at this google search.



        Personally... I love wide angle! I know 35 mm is not really a wide angle, especially o smaller sensors, but you get the idea.



        You actually can make awsome portraits taking advantage of the lens distortion.




        But if you want to stick to a classical portrait, go and rent the proper lens for the need. Especially if it is a paid work. You have a problem if you sacrifice resolution to make a choppy crop.







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited 10 mins ago

























        answered 16 mins ago









        Rafael

        12.7k11838




        12.7k11838




















            up vote
            0
            down vote













            The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
            Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.



            If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.






            share|improve this answer




















            • The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
              – Michael Clark
              58 mins ago














            up vote
            0
            down vote













            The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
            Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.



            If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.






            share|improve this answer




















            • The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
              – Michael Clark
              58 mins ago












            up vote
            0
            down vote










            up vote
            0
            down vote









            The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
            Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.



            If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.






            share|improve this answer












            The worst thing you can do is to make the choice when taking the shot.
            Take both images, then compare at home and take the one you prefer.



            If you see a pattern arise over time of always choosing one image over the other, keep doing that.







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered 1 hour ago









            null

            7,8071742




            7,8071742











            • The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
              – Michael Clark
              58 mins ago
















            • The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
              – Michael Clark
              58 mins ago















            The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
            – Michael Clark
            58 mins ago




            The worst thing you can do is wear your human model out by learning as you go when shooting them. Know what works and what doesn't before the session and you can get what you need while the model is still fresh.
            – Michael Clark
            58 mins ago

















             

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