What's the best tool for cutting holes into duct work?

The name of the pictureThe name of the pictureThe name of the pictureClash Royale CLAN TAG#URR8PPP





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10















I've cut a few supply and cold air returns into my main branches and it's been a PITA. Need to cut another 6" hole for a return, it's just standard rectangle ductwork, probably 14" wide x 10" high.










share|improve this question

















  • 1





    What did you use last time, and what made it a PITA?

    – brhans
    Mar 7 at 13:56






  • 8





    Protip: Cut away, fold away, or cover all shards left behind from your cut. I'm currently healing from a full-depth finger slice on someone else's work, which was hidden behind a duct connector.

    – isherwood
    Mar 7 at 14:29






  • 1





    Also when cutting only turn your attack angle while squeezing the snips, never go back to make a turn or adjustment. If you do you will end up with very sharp curled up pieces of metal colloquially known as meat hooks.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 14:50






  • 1





    Anyone want to address "why not a Dremel?" which would be my first go-to for something like this...

    – R..
    Mar 8 at 2:01






  • 1





    @R.. Wouldn't that be a bit small for a 6" hole? It would definitely help with getting rid of the sharp edges afterwards though.

    – Mast
    Mar 8 at 12:38


















10















I've cut a few supply and cold air returns into my main branches and it's been a PITA. Need to cut another 6" hole for a return, it's just standard rectangle ductwork, probably 14" wide x 10" high.










share|improve this question

















  • 1





    What did you use last time, and what made it a PITA?

    – brhans
    Mar 7 at 13:56






  • 8





    Protip: Cut away, fold away, or cover all shards left behind from your cut. I'm currently healing from a full-depth finger slice on someone else's work, which was hidden behind a duct connector.

    – isherwood
    Mar 7 at 14:29






  • 1





    Also when cutting only turn your attack angle while squeezing the snips, never go back to make a turn or adjustment. If you do you will end up with very sharp curled up pieces of metal colloquially known as meat hooks.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 14:50






  • 1





    Anyone want to address "why not a Dremel?" which would be my first go-to for something like this...

    – R..
    Mar 8 at 2:01






  • 1





    @R.. Wouldn't that be a bit small for a 6" hole? It would definitely help with getting rid of the sharp edges afterwards though.

    – Mast
    Mar 8 at 12:38














10












10








10


3






I've cut a few supply and cold air returns into my main branches and it's been a PITA. Need to cut another 6" hole for a return, it's just standard rectangle ductwork, probably 14" wide x 10" high.










share|improve this question














I've cut a few supply and cold air returns into my main branches and it's been a PITA. Need to cut another 6" hole for a return, it's just standard rectangle ductwork, probably 14" wide x 10" high.







hvac






share|improve this question













share|improve this question











share|improve this question




share|improve this question










asked Mar 7 at 13:40









BigLakeBigLake

535214




535214







  • 1





    What did you use last time, and what made it a PITA?

    – brhans
    Mar 7 at 13:56






  • 8





    Protip: Cut away, fold away, or cover all shards left behind from your cut. I'm currently healing from a full-depth finger slice on someone else's work, which was hidden behind a duct connector.

    – isherwood
    Mar 7 at 14:29






  • 1





    Also when cutting only turn your attack angle while squeezing the snips, never go back to make a turn or adjustment. If you do you will end up with very sharp curled up pieces of metal colloquially known as meat hooks.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 14:50






  • 1





    Anyone want to address "why not a Dremel?" which would be my first go-to for something like this...

    – R..
    Mar 8 at 2:01






  • 1





    @R.. Wouldn't that be a bit small for a 6" hole? It would definitely help with getting rid of the sharp edges afterwards though.

    – Mast
    Mar 8 at 12:38













  • 1





    What did you use last time, and what made it a PITA?

    – brhans
    Mar 7 at 13:56






  • 8





    Protip: Cut away, fold away, or cover all shards left behind from your cut. I'm currently healing from a full-depth finger slice on someone else's work, which was hidden behind a duct connector.

    – isherwood
    Mar 7 at 14:29






  • 1





    Also when cutting only turn your attack angle while squeezing the snips, never go back to make a turn or adjustment. If you do you will end up with very sharp curled up pieces of metal colloquially known as meat hooks.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 14:50






  • 1





    Anyone want to address "why not a Dremel?" which would be my first go-to for something like this...

    – R..
    Mar 8 at 2:01






  • 1





    @R.. Wouldn't that be a bit small for a 6" hole? It would definitely help with getting rid of the sharp edges afterwards though.

    – Mast
    Mar 8 at 12:38








1




1





What did you use last time, and what made it a PITA?

– brhans
Mar 7 at 13:56





What did you use last time, and what made it a PITA?

– brhans
Mar 7 at 13:56




8




8





Protip: Cut away, fold away, or cover all shards left behind from your cut. I'm currently healing from a full-depth finger slice on someone else's work, which was hidden behind a duct connector.

– isherwood
Mar 7 at 14:29





Protip: Cut away, fold away, or cover all shards left behind from your cut. I'm currently healing from a full-depth finger slice on someone else's work, which was hidden behind a duct connector.

– isherwood
Mar 7 at 14:29




1




1





Also when cutting only turn your attack angle while squeezing the snips, never go back to make a turn or adjustment. If you do you will end up with very sharp curled up pieces of metal colloquially known as meat hooks.

– Joe Fala
Mar 7 at 14:50





Also when cutting only turn your attack angle while squeezing the snips, never go back to make a turn or adjustment. If you do you will end up with very sharp curled up pieces of metal colloquially known as meat hooks.

– Joe Fala
Mar 7 at 14:50




1




1





Anyone want to address "why not a Dremel?" which would be my first go-to for something like this...

– R..
Mar 8 at 2:01





Anyone want to address "why not a Dremel?" which would be my first go-to for something like this...

– R..
Mar 8 at 2:01




1




1





@R.. Wouldn't that be a bit small for a 6" hole? It would definitely help with getting rid of the sharp edges afterwards though.

– Mast
Mar 8 at 12:38






@R.. Wouldn't that be a bit small for a 6" hole? It would definitely help with getting rid of the sharp edges afterwards though.

– Mast
Mar 8 at 12:38











2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















7














You might be able to rent a tool from a rental yard called a "nibbler"; you would start with a drilled hole and then the nibbler takes little semi-circular or rectangular bites out of the sheet metal. There are also inexpensive ones now that attach to a drill motor, one is shown in this video. He has troubles with it because he is trying to use it on corrugated sheet metal, you would not have that issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt4O62qnHsk






share|improve this answer

























  • That things actually pretty cool and looks inexpensive. I have several other styles but I think I may buy this one. +1

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:25











  • 15 Canadian dollars! Sold one click purchase.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:28











  • Air shear are also very similar to a nibbler and inexpensive but usually air driven. ~30 CAD

    – Franck
    Mar 7 at 18:40











  • As a tin banger snips are still the best, fastest and most accurate way to cut. But as I've gotten older I've been reaching for the power shears due to golfers/tennis elbow in both my arms. I used to be able to literally crush a walnut in my hand. Now I can barely hold a cup at times. I'm only 37.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:45











  • Ah, an Electric nibbler. The hand powered ones used to cut holes for switches in metal plate, would work, but would take roughly 1 year per hole. Don't get the manual tool for holes that size.

    – Wayfaring Stranger
    Mar 8 at 0:18


















14














STEP ONE



Using a big flat screwdriver orienteded edgewise and a hammer. Strike the screwdriver swiftly and accurately to puncture the duct.
enter image description here



STEP TWO



Insert a Red pair of snips into the hole and nibble around turning to the left (Greens are pictured only because that's what was in front of me) in an expanding circle until you get to the line.
enter image description here



STEP THREE



Cut along your line all the way to the corner, with force turn and continue while gently pulling up on the scrap. Every 2-3 inches turn in off the line and make a relief cut and go back to the line. Once you get to the next corner you don't need relief cuts anymore.
enter image description here



COMPLETE THE CUT
Now it's easy, just cut along the line gently pulling up the scrap. If you are left handed, or only have greens feel free to use Greens but reverse the images. Yellows are designed to cut straight but are capable of cutting to the left like Reds



FOR CIRCULAR HOLES



The same process applies just without the relief cuts.






share|improve this answer

























  • The best tool is a plasma cutter. Fast and clean but not many homeowners are going to shell out +1K for this type of cutting tool.

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 17:15






  • 1





    harbor fright sells cutters for about half that. probably not the biggest workhorse around, but should be enough for duct work...

    – dandavis
    Mar 7 at 18:17






  • 3





    Life's too short not to own a plasma cutter.

    – Sidney
    Mar 7 at 20:41






  • 1





    What's the difference between red, yellow and green snips? How would this translate internationally?

    – Mast
    Mar 8 at 12:40






  • 1





    @Mast A yellow cutter cuts in a straight line, a red one is designed for cutting toward the left, and a green one cuts toward the right. In this case, in the cutting direction shown in the pictures, a "red" - i.e. left curved - snip will leave a clean right edge and a messy left edge, but the left edge doesn't matter because you are removing that piece. The reason not to use a "yellow" - i.e. straight - snip here is because you don't have room to work with it because the metal doesn't move out of the way of the body of the tool....

    – Moshe Katz
    Mar 13 at 17:28












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2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes








2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









7














You might be able to rent a tool from a rental yard called a "nibbler"; you would start with a drilled hole and then the nibbler takes little semi-circular or rectangular bites out of the sheet metal. There are also inexpensive ones now that attach to a drill motor, one is shown in this video. He has troubles with it because he is trying to use it on corrugated sheet metal, you would not have that issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt4O62qnHsk






share|improve this answer

























  • That things actually pretty cool and looks inexpensive. I have several other styles but I think I may buy this one. +1

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:25











  • 15 Canadian dollars! Sold one click purchase.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:28











  • Air shear are also very similar to a nibbler and inexpensive but usually air driven. ~30 CAD

    – Franck
    Mar 7 at 18:40











  • As a tin banger snips are still the best, fastest and most accurate way to cut. But as I've gotten older I've been reaching for the power shears due to golfers/tennis elbow in both my arms. I used to be able to literally crush a walnut in my hand. Now I can barely hold a cup at times. I'm only 37.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:45











  • Ah, an Electric nibbler. The hand powered ones used to cut holes for switches in metal plate, would work, but would take roughly 1 year per hole. Don't get the manual tool for holes that size.

    – Wayfaring Stranger
    Mar 8 at 0:18















7














You might be able to rent a tool from a rental yard called a "nibbler"; you would start with a drilled hole and then the nibbler takes little semi-circular or rectangular bites out of the sheet metal. There are also inexpensive ones now that attach to a drill motor, one is shown in this video. He has troubles with it because he is trying to use it on corrugated sheet metal, you would not have that issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt4O62qnHsk






share|improve this answer

























  • That things actually pretty cool and looks inexpensive. I have several other styles but I think I may buy this one. +1

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:25











  • 15 Canadian dollars! Sold one click purchase.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:28











  • Air shear are also very similar to a nibbler and inexpensive but usually air driven. ~30 CAD

    – Franck
    Mar 7 at 18:40











  • As a tin banger snips are still the best, fastest and most accurate way to cut. But as I've gotten older I've been reaching for the power shears due to golfers/tennis elbow in both my arms. I used to be able to literally crush a walnut in my hand. Now I can barely hold a cup at times. I'm only 37.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:45











  • Ah, an Electric nibbler. The hand powered ones used to cut holes for switches in metal plate, would work, but would take roughly 1 year per hole. Don't get the manual tool for holes that size.

    – Wayfaring Stranger
    Mar 8 at 0:18













7












7








7







You might be able to rent a tool from a rental yard called a "nibbler"; you would start with a drilled hole and then the nibbler takes little semi-circular or rectangular bites out of the sheet metal. There are also inexpensive ones now that attach to a drill motor, one is shown in this video. He has troubles with it because he is trying to use it on corrugated sheet metal, you would not have that issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt4O62qnHsk






share|improve this answer















You might be able to rent a tool from a rental yard called a "nibbler"; you would start with a drilled hole and then the nibbler takes little semi-circular or rectangular bites out of the sheet metal. There are also inexpensive ones now that attach to a drill motor, one is shown in this video. He has troubles with it because he is trying to use it on corrugated sheet metal, you would not have that issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt4O62qnHsk







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited Mar 7 at 20:05

























answered Mar 7 at 17:59









J. RaefieldJ. Raefield

3,573210




3,573210












  • That things actually pretty cool and looks inexpensive. I have several other styles but I think I may buy this one. +1

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:25











  • 15 Canadian dollars! Sold one click purchase.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:28











  • Air shear are also very similar to a nibbler and inexpensive but usually air driven. ~30 CAD

    – Franck
    Mar 7 at 18:40











  • As a tin banger snips are still the best, fastest and most accurate way to cut. But as I've gotten older I've been reaching for the power shears due to golfers/tennis elbow in both my arms. I used to be able to literally crush a walnut in my hand. Now I can barely hold a cup at times. I'm only 37.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:45











  • Ah, an Electric nibbler. The hand powered ones used to cut holes for switches in metal plate, would work, but would take roughly 1 year per hole. Don't get the manual tool for holes that size.

    – Wayfaring Stranger
    Mar 8 at 0:18

















  • That things actually pretty cool and looks inexpensive. I have several other styles but I think I may buy this one. +1

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:25











  • 15 Canadian dollars! Sold one click purchase.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:28











  • Air shear are also very similar to a nibbler and inexpensive but usually air driven. ~30 CAD

    – Franck
    Mar 7 at 18:40











  • As a tin banger snips are still the best, fastest and most accurate way to cut. But as I've gotten older I've been reaching for the power shears due to golfers/tennis elbow in both my arms. I used to be able to literally crush a walnut in my hand. Now I can barely hold a cup at times. I'm only 37.

    – Joe Fala
    Mar 7 at 18:45











  • Ah, an Electric nibbler. The hand powered ones used to cut holes for switches in metal plate, would work, but would take roughly 1 year per hole. Don't get the manual tool for holes that size.

    – Wayfaring Stranger
    Mar 8 at 0:18
















That things actually pretty cool and looks inexpensive. I have several other styles but I think I may buy this one. +1

– Joe Fala
Mar 7 at 18:25





That things actually pretty cool and looks inexpensive. I have several other styles but I think I may buy this one. +1

– Joe Fala
Mar 7 at 18:25













15 Canadian dollars! Sold one click purchase.

– Joe Fala
Mar 7 at 18:28





15 Canadian dollars! Sold one click purchase.

– Joe Fala
Mar 7 at 18:28













Air shear are also very similar to a nibbler and inexpensive but usually air driven. ~30 CAD

– Franck
Mar 7 at 18:40





Air shear are also very similar to a nibbler and inexpensive but usually air driven. ~30 CAD

– Franck
Mar 7 at 18:40













As a tin banger snips are still the best, fastest and most accurate way to cut. But as I've gotten older I've been reaching for the power shears due to golfers/tennis elbow in both my arms. I used to be able to literally crush a walnut in my hand. Now I can barely hold a cup at times. I'm only 37.

– Joe Fala
Mar 7 at 18:45





As a tin banger snips are still the best, fastest and most accurate way to cut. But as I've gotten older I've been reaching for the power shears due to golfers/tennis elbow in both my arms. I used to be able to literally crush a walnut in my hand. Now I can barely hold a cup at times. I'm only 37.

– Joe Fala
Mar 7 at 18:45













Ah, an Electric nibbler. The hand powered ones used to cut holes for switches in metal plate, would work, but would take roughly 1 year per hole. Don't get the manual tool for holes that size.

– Wayfaring Stranger
Mar 8 at 0:18





Ah, an Electric nibbler. The hand powered ones used to cut holes for switches in metal plate, would work, but would take roughly 1 year per hole. Don't get the manual tool for holes that size.

– Wayfaring Stranger
Mar 8 at 0:18













14














STEP ONE



Using a big flat screwdriver orienteded edgewise and a hammer. Strike the screwdriver swiftly and accurately to puncture the duct.
enter image description here



STEP TWO



Insert a Red pair of snips into the hole and nibble around turning to the left (Greens are pictured only because that's what was in front of me) in an expanding circle until you get to the line.
enter image description here



STEP THREE



Cut along your line all the way to the corner, with force turn and continue while gently pulling up on the scrap. Every 2-3 inches turn in off the line and make a relief cut and go back to the line. Once you get to the next corner you don't need relief cuts anymore.
enter image description here



COMPLETE THE CUT
Now it's easy, just cut along the line gently pulling up the scrap. If you are left handed, or only have greens feel free to use Greens but reverse the images. Yellows are designed to cut straight but are capable of cutting to the left like Reds



FOR CIRCULAR HOLES



The same process applies just without the relief cuts.






share|improve this answer

























  • The best tool is a plasma cutter. Fast and clean but not many homeowners are going to shell out +1K for this type of cutting tool.

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 17:15






  • 1





    harbor fright sells cutters for about half that. probably not the biggest workhorse around, but should be enough for duct work...

    – dandavis
    Mar 7 at 18:17






  • 3





    Life's too short not to own a plasma cutter.

    – Sidney
    Mar 7 at 20:41






  • 1





    What's the difference between red, yellow and green snips? How would this translate internationally?

    – Mast
    Mar 8 at 12:40






  • 1





    @Mast A yellow cutter cuts in a straight line, a red one is designed for cutting toward the left, and a green one cuts toward the right. In this case, in the cutting direction shown in the pictures, a "red" - i.e. left curved - snip will leave a clean right edge and a messy left edge, but the left edge doesn't matter because you are removing that piece. The reason not to use a "yellow" - i.e. straight - snip here is because you don't have room to work with it because the metal doesn't move out of the way of the body of the tool....

    – Moshe Katz
    Mar 13 at 17:28
















14














STEP ONE



Using a big flat screwdriver orienteded edgewise and a hammer. Strike the screwdriver swiftly and accurately to puncture the duct.
enter image description here



STEP TWO



Insert a Red pair of snips into the hole and nibble around turning to the left (Greens are pictured only because that's what was in front of me) in an expanding circle until you get to the line.
enter image description here



STEP THREE



Cut along your line all the way to the corner, with force turn and continue while gently pulling up on the scrap. Every 2-3 inches turn in off the line and make a relief cut and go back to the line. Once you get to the next corner you don't need relief cuts anymore.
enter image description here



COMPLETE THE CUT
Now it's easy, just cut along the line gently pulling up the scrap. If you are left handed, or only have greens feel free to use Greens but reverse the images. Yellows are designed to cut straight but are capable of cutting to the left like Reds



FOR CIRCULAR HOLES



The same process applies just without the relief cuts.






share|improve this answer

























  • The best tool is a plasma cutter. Fast and clean but not many homeowners are going to shell out +1K for this type of cutting tool.

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 17:15






  • 1





    harbor fright sells cutters for about half that. probably not the biggest workhorse around, but should be enough for duct work...

    – dandavis
    Mar 7 at 18:17






  • 3





    Life's too short not to own a plasma cutter.

    – Sidney
    Mar 7 at 20:41






  • 1





    What's the difference between red, yellow and green snips? How would this translate internationally?

    – Mast
    Mar 8 at 12:40






  • 1





    @Mast A yellow cutter cuts in a straight line, a red one is designed for cutting toward the left, and a green one cuts toward the right. In this case, in the cutting direction shown in the pictures, a "red" - i.e. left curved - snip will leave a clean right edge and a messy left edge, but the left edge doesn't matter because you are removing that piece. The reason not to use a "yellow" - i.e. straight - snip here is because you don't have room to work with it because the metal doesn't move out of the way of the body of the tool....

    – Moshe Katz
    Mar 13 at 17:28














14












14








14







STEP ONE



Using a big flat screwdriver orienteded edgewise and a hammer. Strike the screwdriver swiftly and accurately to puncture the duct.
enter image description here



STEP TWO



Insert a Red pair of snips into the hole and nibble around turning to the left (Greens are pictured only because that's what was in front of me) in an expanding circle until you get to the line.
enter image description here



STEP THREE



Cut along your line all the way to the corner, with force turn and continue while gently pulling up on the scrap. Every 2-3 inches turn in off the line and make a relief cut and go back to the line. Once you get to the next corner you don't need relief cuts anymore.
enter image description here



COMPLETE THE CUT
Now it's easy, just cut along the line gently pulling up the scrap. If you are left handed, or only have greens feel free to use Greens but reverse the images. Yellows are designed to cut straight but are capable of cutting to the left like Reds



FOR CIRCULAR HOLES



The same process applies just without the relief cuts.






share|improve this answer















STEP ONE



Using a big flat screwdriver orienteded edgewise and a hammer. Strike the screwdriver swiftly and accurately to puncture the duct.
enter image description here



STEP TWO



Insert a Red pair of snips into the hole and nibble around turning to the left (Greens are pictured only because that's what was in front of me) in an expanding circle until you get to the line.
enter image description here



STEP THREE



Cut along your line all the way to the corner, with force turn and continue while gently pulling up on the scrap. Every 2-3 inches turn in off the line and make a relief cut and go back to the line. Once you get to the next corner you don't need relief cuts anymore.
enter image description here



COMPLETE THE CUT
Now it's easy, just cut along the line gently pulling up the scrap. If you are left handed, or only have greens feel free to use Greens but reverse the images. Yellows are designed to cut straight but are capable of cutting to the left like Reds



FOR CIRCULAR HOLES



The same process applies just without the relief cuts.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited Mar 7 at 14:26

























answered Mar 7 at 14:20









Joe FalaJoe Fala

5,165328




5,165328












  • The best tool is a plasma cutter. Fast and clean but not many homeowners are going to shell out +1K for this type of cutting tool.

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 17:15






  • 1





    harbor fright sells cutters for about half that. probably not the biggest workhorse around, but should be enough for duct work...

    – dandavis
    Mar 7 at 18:17






  • 3





    Life's too short not to own a plasma cutter.

    – Sidney
    Mar 7 at 20:41






  • 1





    What's the difference between red, yellow and green snips? How would this translate internationally?

    – Mast
    Mar 8 at 12:40






  • 1





    @Mast A yellow cutter cuts in a straight line, a red one is designed for cutting toward the left, and a green one cuts toward the right. In this case, in the cutting direction shown in the pictures, a "red" - i.e. left curved - snip will leave a clean right edge and a messy left edge, but the left edge doesn't matter because you are removing that piece. The reason not to use a "yellow" - i.e. straight - snip here is because you don't have room to work with it because the metal doesn't move out of the way of the body of the tool....

    – Moshe Katz
    Mar 13 at 17:28


















  • The best tool is a plasma cutter. Fast and clean but not many homeowners are going to shell out +1K for this type of cutting tool.

    – Ed Beal
    Mar 7 at 17:15






  • 1





    harbor fright sells cutters for about half that. probably not the biggest workhorse around, but should be enough for duct work...

    – dandavis
    Mar 7 at 18:17






  • 3





    Life's too short not to own a plasma cutter.

    – Sidney
    Mar 7 at 20:41






  • 1





    What's the difference between red, yellow and green snips? How would this translate internationally?

    – Mast
    Mar 8 at 12:40






  • 1





    @Mast A yellow cutter cuts in a straight line, a red one is designed for cutting toward the left, and a green one cuts toward the right. In this case, in the cutting direction shown in the pictures, a "red" - i.e. left curved - snip will leave a clean right edge and a messy left edge, but the left edge doesn't matter because you are removing that piece. The reason not to use a "yellow" - i.e. straight - snip here is because you don't have room to work with it because the metal doesn't move out of the way of the body of the tool....

    – Moshe Katz
    Mar 13 at 17:28

















The best tool is a plasma cutter. Fast and clean but not many homeowners are going to shell out +1K for this type of cutting tool.

– Ed Beal
Mar 7 at 17:15





The best tool is a plasma cutter. Fast and clean but not many homeowners are going to shell out +1K for this type of cutting tool.

– Ed Beal
Mar 7 at 17:15




1




1





harbor fright sells cutters for about half that. probably not the biggest workhorse around, but should be enough for duct work...

– dandavis
Mar 7 at 18:17





harbor fright sells cutters for about half that. probably not the biggest workhorse around, but should be enough for duct work...

– dandavis
Mar 7 at 18:17




3




3





Life's too short not to own a plasma cutter.

– Sidney
Mar 7 at 20:41





Life's too short not to own a plasma cutter.

– Sidney
Mar 7 at 20:41




1




1





What's the difference between red, yellow and green snips? How would this translate internationally?

– Mast
Mar 8 at 12:40





What's the difference between red, yellow and green snips? How would this translate internationally?

– Mast
Mar 8 at 12:40




1




1





@Mast A yellow cutter cuts in a straight line, a red one is designed for cutting toward the left, and a green one cuts toward the right. In this case, in the cutting direction shown in the pictures, a "red" - i.e. left curved - snip will leave a clean right edge and a messy left edge, but the left edge doesn't matter because you are removing that piece. The reason not to use a "yellow" - i.e. straight - snip here is because you don't have room to work with it because the metal doesn't move out of the way of the body of the tool....

– Moshe Katz
Mar 13 at 17:28






@Mast A yellow cutter cuts in a straight line, a red one is designed for cutting toward the left, and a green one cuts toward the right. In this case, in the cutting direction shown in the pictures, a "red" - i.e. left curved - snip will leave a clean right edge and a messy left edge, but the left edge doesn't matter because you are removing that piece. The reason not to use a "yellow" - i.e. straight - snip here is because you don't have room to work with it because the metal doesn't move out of the way of the body of the tool....

– Moshe Katz
Mar 13 at 17:28


















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