Turning a hard to access nut?

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21















Working on the propane conversion of my gas stove. One of the orifices to be changed is in a very hard to access location - shown in the photo. The orifice is the "nut" I'm referring to, which you can fit a wrench onto.



Although it is possible to get a wrench on it there is a very limited range of motion due to surrounding apparatus. I've tried to mark this in the photo with the red lines. The very short arc that the wrench can turn in means that it never gets a 'bite' on the orifice / nut and I can't even loosen it.



It would be much more work to disassemble the other parts in this area, so I'm hoping for a solution to remove and then reinstall just the orifice part. Maybe there's a specialty type of wrench... or something else I'm not thinking of.



Hard to reach










share|improve this question



















  • 5





    Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.

    – UnhandledExcepSean
    Mar 17 at 14:39











  • @UnhandledExcepSean yes, it won't start the fitting turning either way. Too much play between the wrench & contact surfaces.

    – DaveInCaz
    Mar 18 at 9:46






  • 1





    Is that the gas valve? Can you unbolt it and swing it out of that area, looks like the line is flexible.

    – Platinum Goose
    Mar 18 at 15:56






  • 1





    "Get a cheap and nasty dollar store wrench, and file and bend it into submission till it fits" an acceptable answer here? :)

    – rackandboneman
    Mar 18 at 19:29






  • 2





    Ah, welcome to the bane of every car mechanic's existence!

    – Clonkex
    Mar 19 at 5:51

















21















Working on the propane conversion of my gas stove. One of the orifices to be changed is in a very hard to access location - shown in the photo. The orifice is the "nut" I'm referring to, which you can fit a wrench onto.



Although it is possible to get a wrench on it there is a very limited range of motion due to surrounding apparatus. I've tried to mark this in the photo with the red lines. The very short arc that the wrench can turn in means that it never gets a 'bite' on the orifice / nut and I can't even loosen it.



It would be much more work to disassemble the other parts in this area, so I'm hoping for a solution to remove and then reinstall just the orifice part. Maybe there's a specialty type of wrench... or something else I'm not thinking of.



Hard to reach










share|improve this question



















  • 5





    Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.

    – UnhandledExcepSean
    Mar 17 at 14:39











  • @UnhandledExcepSean yes, it won't start the fitting turning either way. Too much play between the wrench & contact surfaces.

    – DaveInCaz
    Mar 18 at 9:46






  • 1





    Is that the gas valve? Can you unbolt it and swing it out of that area, looks like the line is flexible.

    – Platinum Goose
    Mar 18 at 15:56






  • 1





    "Get a cheap and nasty dollar store wrench, and file and bend it into submission till it fits" an acceptable answer here? :)

    – rackandboneman
    Mar 18 at 19:29






  • 2





    Ah, welcome to the bane of every car mechanic's existence!

    – Clonkex
    Mar 19 at 5:51













21












21








21


1






Working on the propane conversion of my gas stove. One of the orifices to be changed is in a very hard to access location - shown in the photo. The orifice is the "nut" I'm referring to, which you can fit a wrench onto.



Although it is possible to get a wrench on it there is a very limited range of motion due to surrounding apparatus. I've tried to mark this in the photo with the red lines. The very short arc that the wrench can turn in means that it never gets a 'bite' on the orifice / nut and I can't even loosen it.



It would be much more work to disassemble the other parts in this area, so I'm hoping for a solution to remove and then reinstall just the orifice part. Maybe there's a specialty type of wrench... or something else I'm not thinking of.



Hard to reach










share|improve this question
















Working on the propane conversion of my gas stove. One of the orifices to be changed is in a very hard to access location - shown in the photo. The orifice is the "nut" I'm referring to, which you can fit a wrench onto.



Although it is possible to get a wrench on it there is a very limited range of motion due to surrounding apparatus. I've tried to mark this in the photo with the red lines. The very short arc that the wrench can turn in means that it never gets a 'bite' on the orifice / nut and I can't even loosen it.



It would be much more work to disassemble the other parts in this area, so I'm hoping for a solution to remove and then reinstall just the orifice part. Maybe there's a specialty type of wrench... or something else I'm not thinking of.



Hard to reach







tools bolts wrench






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited Mar 18 at 12:32









Machavity

8,34821941




8,34821941










asked Mar 17 at 14:09









DaveInCazDaveInCaz

1,3931832




1,3931832







  • 5





    Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.

    – UnhandledExcepSean
    Mar 17 at 14:39











  • @UnhandledExcepSean yes, it won't start the fitting turning either way. Too much play between the wrench & contact surfaces.

    – DaveInCaz
    Mar 18 at 9:46






  • 1





    Is that the gas valve? Can you unbolt it and swing it out of that area, looks like the line is flexible.

    – Platinum Goose
    Mar 18 at 15:56






  • 1





    "Get a cheap and nasty dollar store wrench, and file and bend it into submission till it fits" an acceptable answer here? :)

    – rackandboneman
    Mar 18 at 19:29






  • 2





    Ah, welcome to the bane of every car mechanic's existence!

    – Clonkex
    Mar 19 at 5:51












  • 5





    Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.

    – UnhandledExcepSean
    Mar 17 at 14:39











  • @UnhandledExcepSean yes, it won't start the fitting turning either way. Too much play between the wrench & contact surfaces.

    – DaveInCaz
    Mar 18 at 9:46






  • 1





    Is that the gas valve? Can you unbolt it and swing it out of that area, looks like the line is flexible.

    – Platinum Goose
    Mar 18 at 15:56






  • 1





    "Get a cheap and nasty dollar store wrench, and file and bend it into submission till it fits" an acceptable answer here? :)

    – rackandboneman
    Mar 18 at 19:29






  • 2





    Ah, welcome to the bane of every car mechanic's existence!

    – Clonkex
    Mar 19 at 5:51







5




5





Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.

– UnhandledExcepSean
Mar 17 at 14:39





Before going to buy a new tool, have you tried turn the wrench over? I’ve had places where I kept having to flip the wrench to get in on the nut.

– UnhandledExcepSean
Mar 17 at 14:39













@UnhandledExcepSean yes, it won't start the fitting turning either way. Too much play between the wrench & contact surfaces.

– DaveInCaz
Mar 18 at 9:46





@UnhandledExcepSean yes, it won't start the fitting turning either way. Too much play between the wrench & contact surfaces.

– DaveInCaz
Mar 18 at 9:46




1




1





Is that the gas valve? Can you unbolt it and swing it out of that area, looks like the line is flexible.

– Platinum Goose
Mar 18 at 15:56





Is that the gas valve? Can you unbolt it and swing it out of that area, looks like the line is flexible.

– Platinum Goose
Mar 18 at 15:56




1




1





"Get a cheap and nasty dollar store wrench, and file and bend it into submission till it fits" an acceptable answer here? :)

– rackandboneman
Mar 18 at 19:29





"Get a cheap and nasty dollar store wrench, and file and bend it into submission till it fits" an acceptable answer here? :)

– rackandboneman
Mar 18 at 19:29




2




2





Ah, welcome to the bane of every car mechanic's existence!

– Clonkex
Mar 19 at 5:51





Ah, welcome to the bane of every car mechanic's existence!

– Clonkex
Mar 19 at 5:51










10 Answers
10






active

oldest

votes


















24














A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00



enter image description here






share|improve this answer




















  • 1





    There's a sub-type of crowfoot called the flare nut crowfoot wrench. It may (or may not) work better in this application.

    – Greg Hill
    Mar 18 at 17:46


















16














I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
enter image description here
Amazon



After all, this is the tool made for this job



If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobraenter image description here
Home Depot



These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.






share|improve this answer






























    15














    The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.



    enter image description here



    (Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)



    The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.






    share|improve this answer


















    • 1





      I was going to suggest that this looked more like it needed a flare-nut wrench

      – Wayne Werner
      Mar 18 at 17:17











    • I've never seen a 12-point box wrench. I'll have to find some and add them to my toy box, er... tool chest!

      – FreeMan
      Mar 19 at 11:39











    • I've seen them made at home out of a standard ring spanner, using a multi-tool cutting disk to cut away part of the ring. Short spanners are easier, just cut a standard 2-ended spanner into two pieces, one of which is exactly the right length for whatever restricted access you have.

      – nigel222
      Mar 20 at 9:35


















    15














    What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).



    enter image description here



    As a result, there's a 30 degree difference between the wrench (normal) and (flipped).



    enter image description here



    That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.



    If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. Do not proceed further because you'll damage the hex corners, which will make the lash problem much worse. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.



    An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.



    enter image description here



    It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...



    enter image description here






    share|improve this answer




















    • 4





      It could also be a cheapo wrench that is not very precise in its size. I'm going to try some other wrenches & other sizes to see if any get a better grip. I'm not sure if there is enough space for an adjustable but we'll see.

      – DaveInCaz
      Mar 18 at 9:47






    • 2





      Fun fact: The German name for an adjustable wrench is der Englander which translates as "an Englishman". Italian is the same!

      – Martin Bonner
      Mar 18 at 14:48











    • @MartinBonner Because adjustable wrenches work on English fasteners :)

      – Harper
      Mar 18 at 15:33






    • 2





      @DaveInCaz my other concern would be whether you're using an SAE wrench on a metric nut or vice versa, since you mention slippage. Certain sizes in SAE/metric come very close to one another, but if you use the wrong one it'll feel almost like it fits except it's a bit sloppy.

      – Doktor J
      Mar 18 at 21:35






    • 1





      @Harper Interesting, perhaps now it should be called Americaner ;)?

      – Kodos Johnson
      Mar 18 at 23:02


















    5














    An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.



    Something like this:
    enter image description here






    share|improve this answer
































      3














      One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :



      enter image description here



      Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.






      share|improve this answer


















      • 1





        I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.

        – Harper
        Mar 17 at 17:07











      • If you don't have them to use then you won't know...

        – Solar Mike
        Mar 17 at 17:11






      • 4





        Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?

        – Harper
        Mar 17 at 17:23



















      2














      EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.




      There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?



      enter image description here



      They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.






      share|improve this answer




















      • 3





        But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.

        – UnhandledExcepSean
        Mar 17 at 19:29






      • 1





        @UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.

        – Criggie
        Mar 18 at 0:49











      • Sorry the pic wasn't more clear, but this was a good suggestion. The angling of the u-joint could have provided a greater range of motion.

        – DaveInCaz
        Mar 18 at 14:32


















      1














      Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:



      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE






      share|improve this answer


















      • 1





        That appears to require 60 degrees travel between re-engaging the ratchet.

        – Pete Kirkham
        Mar 18 at 13:41











      • In that case a flat 12-point ratcheting wrench might work better if you can get it in, but I wasn't clear whether that's possible.

        – R..
        Mar 18 at 14:44


















      0














      I would try with my socket set and ratchet handle. If there's enough space to get the socket and ratchet over the nut, then you need only a few degrees of wiggle at right-angles to the nut in order to un-do it one click of the ratchet at a time. (Also you can be sure of getting the nut back on, whereas if you get it off with an open wrench of any sort, this may prove to be a problem!)



      I have seen the equivalent of a ring spanner with a ratchet mechanism built in, which is hardly any thicker than any standard wrench. I have yet to need to buy one, but it's probably the ultimate solution to such a problem. This is an example:



      Before anybody points this out: ratchet mechanisms are "weak". They do not allow one to exert really high torque, and tend to fail if you try to dislodge a really stubborn nut, for example by bashing the handle with a hammer. If this is a problem, start with a standard wrench to loosen the nut a little. Then switch to the ratchet.






      share|improve this answer

























      • If it were possible to fit a socket on to the "nut" then this might work, but the "nut" has a pipe coming out of it (just visible behind the spanner in the photo).

        – Andrew Leach
        Mar 20 at 8:59











      • I share your pain. Sometimes I think the design brief is to make the hardware as hard to repair as possible (built-in obsolescence by expense of repair). I googled "open-ended ratcheting spanner" and such a thing does appear to exist, for example audel.com.au/toptul-aeat2222-open-end-ratcheting-wrench-22mm ... but unsurprisingly, such a specialist tool is not cheap!

        – nigel222
        Mar 20 at 9:25


















      0














      I suggest the wrench is the wrong size for a perfect fit on the nut. Plumbing fittings are commonly made in their own peculiar series of sizes. Just a little misfit at the nut becomes a large loss-of-movement at the handle. Suggest you explore the fit. If it is desperate, you might be able to shim the wrench for a neat fit on the nut.






      share|improve this answer























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        10 Answers
        10






        active

        oldest

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        10 Answers
        10






        active

        oldest

        votes









        active

        oldest

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        active

        oldest

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        24














        A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00



        enter image description here






        share|improve this answer




















        • 1





          There's a sub-type of crowfoot called the flare nut crowfoot wrench. It may (or may not) work better in this application.

          – Greg Hill
          Mar 18 at 17:46















        24














        A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00



        enter image description here






        share|improve this answer




















        • 1





          There's a sub-type of crowfoot called the flare nut crowfoot wrench. It may (or may not) work better in this application.

          – Greg Hill
          Mar 18 at 17:46













        24












        24








        24







        A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00



        enter image description here






        share|improve this answer















        A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00



        enter image description here







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited Mar 17 at 20:10

























        answered Mar 17 at 16:02









        Jerry_ContraryJerry_Contrary

        3,327323




        3,327323







        • 1





          There's a sub-type of crowfoot called the flare nut crowfoot wrench. It may (or may not) work better in this application.

          – Greg Hill
          Mar 18 at 17:46












        • 1





          There's a sub-type of crowfoot called the flare nut crowfoot wrench. It may (or may not) work better in this application.

          – Greg Hill
          Mar 18 at 17:46







        1




        1





        There's a sub-type of crowfoot called the flare nut crowfoot wrench. It may (or may not) work better in this application.

        – Greg Hill
        Mar 18 at 17:46





        There's a sub-type of crowfoot called the flare nut crowfoot wrench. It may (or may not) work better in this application.

        – Greg Hill
        Mar 18 at 17:46













        16














        I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
        enter image description here
        Amazon



        After all, this is the tool made for this job



        If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobraenter image description here
        Home Depot



        These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.






        share|improve this answer



























          16














          I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
          enter image description here
          Amazon



          After all, this is the tool made for this job



          If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobraenter image description here
          Home Depot



          These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.






          share|improve this answer

























            16












            16








            16







            I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
            enter image description here
            Amazon



            After all, this is the tool made for this job



            If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobraenter image description here
            Home Depot



            These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.






            share|improve this answer













            I'm a gas fitter and service tech. My bag has the tools to do the job. Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. I'd get a 12 point
            enter image description here
            Amazon



            After all, this is the tool made for this job



            If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobraenter image description here
            Home Depot



            These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring.







            share|improve this answer












            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer










            answered Mar 18 at 2:28









            Joe FalaJoe Fala

            5,330329




            5,330329





















                15














                The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.



                enter image description here



                (Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)



                The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.






                share|improve this answer


















                • 1





                  I was going to suggest that this looked more like it needed a flare-nut wrench

                  – Wayne Werner
                  Mar 18 at 17:17











                • I've never seen a 12-point box wrench. I'll have to find some and add them to my toy box, er... tool chest!

                  – FreeMan
                  Mar 19 at 11:39











                • I've seen them made at home out of a standard ring spanner, using a multi-tool cutting disk to cut away part of the ring. Short spanners are easier, just cut a standard 2-ended spanner into two pieces, one of which is exactly the right length for whatever restricted access you have.

                  – nigel222
                  Mar 20 at 9:35















                15














                The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.



                enter image description here



                (Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)



                The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.






                share|improve this answer


















                • 1





                  I was going to suggest that this looked more like it needed a flare-nut wrench

                  – Wayne Werner
                  Mar 18 at 17:17











                • I've never seen a 12-point box wrench. I'll have to find some and add them to my toy box, er... tool chest!

                  – FreeMan
                  Mar 19 at 11:39











                • I've seen them made at home out of a standard ring spanner, using a multi-tool cutting disk to cut away part of the ring. Short spanners are easier, just cut a standard 2-ended spanner into two pieces, one of which is exactly the right length for whatever restricted access you have.

                  – nigel222
                  Mar 20 at 9:35













                15












                15








                15







                The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.



                enter image description here



                (Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)



                The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.






                share|improve this answer













                The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. These are also available in a 6-point design.



                enter image description here



                (Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm)



                The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small.







                share|improve this answer












                share|improve this answer



                share|improve this answer










                answered Mar 18 at 0:21









                Michael KarasMichael Karas

                45.3k53488




                45.3k53488







                • 1





                  I was going to suggest that this looked more like it needed a flare-nut wrench

                  – Wayne Werner
                  Mar 18 at 17:17











                • I've never seen a 12-point box wrench. I'll have to find some and add them to my toy box, er... tool chest!

                  – FreeMan
                  Mar 19 at 11:39











                • I've seen them made at home out of a standard ring spanner, using a multi-tool cutting disk to cut away part of the ring. Short spanners are easier, just cut a standard 2-ended spanner into two pieces, one of which is exactly the right length for whatever restricted access you have.

                  – nigel222
                  Mar 20 at 9:35












                • 1





                  I was going to suggest that this looked more like it needed a flare-nut wrench

                  – Wayne Werner
                  Mar 18 at 17:17











                • I've never seen a 12-point box wrench. I'll have to find some and add them to my toy box, er... tool chest!

                  – FreeMan
                  Mar 19 at 11:39











                • I've seen them made at home out of a standard ring spanner, using a multi-tool cutting disk to cut away part of the ring. Short spanners are easier, just cut a standard 2-ended spanner into two pieces, one of which is exactly the right length for whatever restricted access you have.

                  – nigel222
                  Mar 20 at 9:35







                1




                1





                I was going to suggest that this looked more like it needed a flare-nut wrench

                – Wayne Werner
                Mar 18 at 17:17





                I was going to suggest that this looked more like it needed a flare-nut wrench

                – Wayne Werner
                Mar 18 at 17:17













                I've never seen a 12-point box wrench. I'll have to find some and add them to my toy box, er... tool chest!

                – FreeMan
                Mar 19 at 11:39





                I've never seen a 12-point box wrench. I'll have to find some and add them to my toy box, er... tool chest!

                – FreeMan
                Mar 19 at 11:39













                I've seen them made at home out of a standard ring spanner, using a multi-tool cutting disk to cut away part of the ring. Short spanners are easier, just cut a standard 2-ended spanner into two pieces, one of which is exactly the right length for whatever restricted access you have.

                – nigel222
                Mar 20 at 9:35





                I've seen them made at home out of a standard ring spanner, using a multi-tool cutting disk to cut away part of the ring. Short spanners are easier, just cut a standard 2-ended spanner into two pieces, one of which is exactly the right length for whatever restricted access you have.

                – nigel222
                Mar 20 at 9:35











                15














                What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).



                enter image description here



                As a result, there's a 30 degree difference between the wrench (normal) and (flipped).



                enter image description here



                That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.



                If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. Do not proceed further because you'll damage the hex corners, which will make the lash problem much worse. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.



                An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.



                enter image description here



                It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...



                enter image description here






                share|improve this answer




















                • 4





                  It could also be a cheapo wrench that is not very precise in its size. I'm going to try some other wrenches & other sizes to see if any get a better grip. I'm not sure if there is enough space for an adjustable but we'll see.

                  – DaveInCaz
                  Mar 18 at 9:47






                • 2





                  Fun fact: The German name for an adjustable wrench is der Englander which translates as "an Englishman". Italian is the same!

                  – Martin Bonner
                  Mar 18 at 14:48











                • @MartinBonner Because adjustable wrenches work on English fasteners :)

                  – Harper
                  Mar 18 at 15:33






                • 2





                  @DaveInCaz my other concern would be whether you're using an SAE wrench on a metric nut or vice versa, since you mention slippage. Certain sizes in SAE/metric come very close to one another, but if you use the wrong one it'll feel almost like it fits except it's a bit sloppy.

                  – Doktor J
                  Mar 18 at 21:35






                • 1





                  @Harper Interesting, perhaps now it should be called Americaner ;)?

                  – Kodos Johnson
                  Mar 18 at 23:02















                15














                What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).



                enter image description here



                As a result, there's a 30 degree difference between the wrench (normal) and (flipped).



                enter image description here



                That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.



                If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. Do not proceed further because you'll damage the hex corners, which will make the lash problem much worse. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.



                An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.



                enter image description here



                It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...



                enter image description here






                share|improve this answer




















                • 4





                  It could also be a cheapo wrench that is not very precise in its size. I'm going to try some other wrenches & other sizes to see if any get a better grip. I'm not sure if there is enough space for an adjustable but we'll see.

                  – DaveInCaz
                  Mar 18 at 9:47






                • 2





                  Fun fact: The German name for an adjustable wrench is der Englander which translates as "an Englishman". Italian is the same!

                  – Martin Bonner
                  Mar 18 at 14:48











                • @MartinBonner Because adjustable wrenches work on English fasteners :)

                  – Harper
                  Mar 18 at 15:33






                • 2





                  @DaveInCaz my other concern would be whether you're using an SAE wrench on a metric nut or vice versa, since you mention slippage. Certain sizes in SAE/metric come very close to one another, but if you use the wrong one it'll feel almost like it fits except it's a bit sloppy.

                  – Doktor J
                  Mar 18 at 21:35






                • 1





                  @Harper Interesting, perhaps now it should be called Americaner ;)?

                  – Kodos Johnson
                  Mar 18 at 23:02













                15












                15








                15







                What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).



                enter image description here



                As a result, there's a 30 degree difference between the wrench (normal) and (flipped).



                enter image description here



                That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.



                If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. Do not proceed further because you'll damage the hex corners, which will make the lash problem much worse. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.



                An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.



                enter image description here



                It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...



                enter image description here






                share|improve this answer















                What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees).



                enter image description here



                As a result, there's a 30 degree difference between the wrench (normal) and (flipped).



                enter image description here



                That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat.



                If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench. Do not proceed further because you'll damage the hex corners, which will make the lash problem much worse. In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy.



                An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that tight and might have to retighten on every turn.



                enter image description here



                It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions...



                enter image description here







                share|improve this answer














                share|improve this answer



                share|improve this answer








                edited Mar 18 at 15:35

























                answered Mar 17 at 17:04









                HarperHarper

                76.7k449153




                76.7k449153







                • 4





                  It could also be a cheapo wrench that is not very precise in its size. I'm going to try some other wrenches & other sizes to see if any get a better grip. I'm not sure if there is enough space for an adjustable but we'll see.

                  – DaveInCaz
                  Mar 18 at 9:47






                • 2





                  Fun fact: The German name for an adjustable wrench is der Englander which translates as "an Englishman". Italian is the same!

                  – Martin Bonner
                  Mar 18 at 14:48











                • @MartinBonner Because adjustable wrenches work on English fasteners :)

                  – Harper
                  Mar 18 at 15:33






                • 2





                  @DaveInCaz my other concern would be whether you're using an SAE wrench on a metric nut or vice versa, since you mention slippage. Certain sizes in SAE/metric come very close to one another, but if you use the wrong one it'll feel almost like it fits except it's a bit sloppy.

                  – Doktor J
                  Mar 18 at 21:35






                • 1





                  @Harper Interesting, perhaps now it should be called Americaner ;)?

                  – Kodos Johnson
                  Mar 18 at 23:02












                • 4





                  It could also be a cheapo wrench that is not very precise in its size. I'm going to try some other wrenches & other sizes to see if any get a better grip. I'm not sure if there is enough space for an adjustable but we'll see.

                  – DaveInCaz
                  Mar 18 at 9:47






                • 2





                  Fun fact: The German name for an adjustable wrench is der Englander which translates as "an Englishman". Italian is the same!

                  – Martin Bonner
                  Mar 18 at 14:48











                • @MartinBonner Because adjustable wrenches work on English fasteners :)

                  – Harper
                  Mar 18 at 15:33






                • 2





                  @DaveInCaz my other concern would be whether you're using an SAE wrench on a metric nut or vice versa, since you mention slippage. Certain sizes in SAE/metric come very close to one another, but if you use the wrong one it'll feel almost like it fits except it's a bit sloppy.

                  – Doktor J
                  Mar 18 at 21:35






                • 1





                  @Harper Interesting, perhaps now it should be called Americaner ;)?

                  – Kodos Johnson
                  Mar 18 at 23:02







                4




                4





                It could also be a cheapo wrench that is not very precise in its size. I'm going to try some other wrenches & other sizes to see if any get a better grip. I'm not sure if there is enough space for an adjustable but we'll see.

                – DaveInCaz
                Mar 18 at 9:47





                It could also be a cheapo wrench that is not very precise in its size. I'm going to try some other wrenches & other sizes to see if any get a better grip. I'm not sure if there is enough space for an adjustable but we'll see.

                – DaveInCaz
                Mar 18 at 9:47




                2




                2





                Fun fact: The German name for an adjustable wrench is der Englander which translates as "an Englishman". Italian is the same!

                – Martin Bonner
                Mar 18 at 14:48





                Fun fact: The German name for an adjustable wrench is der Englander which translates as "an Englishman". Italian is the same!

                – Martin Bonner
                Mar 18 at 14:48













                @MartinBonner Because adjustable wrenches work on English fasteners :)

                – Harper
                Mar 18 at 15:33





                @MartinBonner Because adjustable wrenches work on English fasteners :)

                – Harper
                Mar 18 at 15:33




                2




                2





                @DaveInCaz my other concern would be whether you're using an SAE wrench on a metric nut or vice versa, since you mention slippage. Certain sizes in SAE/metric come very close to one another, but if you use the wrong one it'll feel almost like it fits except it's a bit sloppy.

                – Doktor J
                Mar 18 at 21:35





                @DaveInCaz my other concern would be whether you're using an SAE wrench on a metric nut or vice versa, since you mention slippage. Certain sizes in SAE/metric come very close to one another, but if you use the wrong one it'll feel almost like it fits except it's a bit sloppy.

                – Doktor J
                Mar 18 at 21:35




                1




                1





                @Harper Interesting, perhaps now it should be called Americaner ;)?

                – Kodos Johnson
                Mar 18 at 23:02





                @Harper Interesting, perhaps now it should be called Americaner ;)?

                – Kodos Johnson
                Mar 18 at 23:02











                5














                An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.



                Something like this:
                enter image description here






                share|improve this answer





























                  5














                  An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.



                  Something like this:
                  enter image description here






                  share|improve this answer



























                    5












                    5








                    5







                    An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.



                    Something like this:
                    enter image description here






                    share|improve this answer















                    An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job.



                    Something like this:
                    enter image description here







                    share|improve this answer














                    share|improve this answer



                    share|improve this answer








                    edited Mar 17 at 19:28

























                    answered Mar 17 at 14:31









                    UnhandledExcepSeanUnhandledExcepSean

                    1,73131624




                    1,73131624





















                        3














                        One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :



                        enter image description here



                        Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.






                        share|improve this answer


















                        • 1





                          I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.

                          – Harper
                          Mar 17 at 17:07











                        • If you don't have them to use then you won't know...

                          – Solar Mike
                          Mar 17 at 17:11






                        • 4





                          Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?

                          – Harper
                          Mar 17 at 17:23
















                        3














                        One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :



                        enter image description here



                        Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.






                        share|improve this answer


















                        • 1





                          I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.

                          – Harper
                          Mar 17 at 17:07











                        • If you don't have them to use then you won't know...

                          – Solar Mike
                          Mar 17 at 17:11






                        • 4





                          Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?

                          – Harper
                          Mar 17 at 17:23














                        3












                        3








                        3







                        One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :



                        enter image description here



                        Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.






                        share|improve this answer













                        One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations :



                        enter image description here



                        Mind you, the set cost me quite a bit... But that was a long time ago.







                        share|improve this answer












                        share|improve this answer



                        share|improve this answer










                        answered Mar 17 at 14:28









                        Solar MikeSolar Mike

                        1,35329




                        1,35329







                        • 1





                          I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.

                          – Harper
                          Mar 17 at 17:07











                        • If you don't have them to use then you won't know...

                          – Solar Mike
                          Mar 17 at 17:11






                        • 4





                          Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?

                          – Harper
                          Mar 17 at 17:23













                        • 1





                          I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.

                          – Harper
                          Mar 17 at 17:07











                        • If you don't have them to use then you won't know...

                          – Solar Mike
                          Mar 17 at 17:11






                        • 4





                          Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?

                          – Harper
                          Mar 17 at 17:23








                        1




                        1





                        I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.

                        – Harper
                        Mar 17 at 17:07





                        I don't see how that does anything at all for your range of motion. I'm assuming the builders of that tool were smart and made those two heads 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees) off from one another. But that just means you need to flip the tool end from end every 1/12, whereas with a normal wrench you just turn it over.

                        – Harper
                        Mar 17 at 17:07













                        If you don't have them to use then you won't know...

                        – Solar Mike
                        Mar 17 at 17:11





                        If you don't have them to use then you won't know...

                        – Solar Mike
                        Mar 17 at 17:11




                        4




                        4





                        Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?

                        – Harper
                        Mar 17 at 17:23






                        Maybe you can explain how you use this type of wrench to solve the "I don't have 30 degrees of arc" problem, which is OP. Because attaching to the next hex around doesn't really do anything for that problem. Do you alternate between this and a normal wrench?

                        – Harper
                        Mar 17 at 17:23












                        2














                        EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.




                        There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?



                        enter image description here



                        They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.






                        share|improve this answer




















                        • 3





                          But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.

                          – UnhandledExcepSean
                          Mar 17 at 19:29






                        • 1





                          @UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.

                          – Criggie
                          Mar 18 at 0:49











                        • Sorry the pic wasn't more clear, but this was a good suggestion. The angling of the u-joint could have provided a greater range of motion.

                          – DaveInCaz
                          Mar 18 at 14:32















                        2














                        EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.




                        There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?



                        enter image description here



                        They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.






                        share|improve this answer




















                        • 3





                          But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.

                          – UnhandledExcepSean
                          Mar 17 at 19:29






                        • 1





                          @UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.

                          – Criggie
                          Mar 18 at 0:49











                        • Sorry the pic wasn't more clear, but this was a good suggestion. The angling of the u-joint could have provided a greater range of motion.

                          – DaveInCaz
                          Mar 18 at 14:32













                        2












                        2








                        2







                        EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.




                        There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?



                        enter image description here



                        They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.






                        share|improve this answer















                        EDIT this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. Leaving for completeness.




                        There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint?



                        enter image description here



                        They add slop but that's no more than annoying. You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too.







                        share|improve this answer














                        share|improve this answer



                        share|improve this answer








                        edited Mar 18 at 0:50

























                        answered Mar 17 at 19:20









                        CriggieCriggie

                        1,108618




                        1,108618







                        • 3





                          But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.

                          – UnhandledExcepSean
                          Mar 17 at 19:29






                        • 1





                          @UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.

                          – Criggie
                          Mar 18 at 0:49











                        • Sorry the pic wasn't more clear, but this was a good suggestion. The angling of the u-joint could have provided a greater range of motion.

                          – DaveInCaz
                          Mar 18 at 14:32












                        • 3





                          But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.

                          – UnhandledExcepSean
                          Mar 17 at 19:29






                        • 1





                          @UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.

                          – Criggie
                          Mar 18 at 0:49











                        • Sorry the pic wasn't more clear, but this was a good suggestion. The angling of the u-joint could have provided a greater range of motion.

                          – DaveInCaz
                          Mar 18 at 14:32







                        3




                        3





                        But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.

                        – UnhandledExcepSean
                        Mar 17 at 19:29





                        But it is a nut with a line going out the left side. It is a bit obscured but the wrench in the pic, but sockets won’t work.

                        – UnhandledExcepSean
                        Mar 17 at 19:29




                        1




                        1





                        @UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.

                        – Criggie
                        Mar 18 at 0:49





                        @UnhandledExcepSean Good point - I missed that in the photo.

                        – Criggie
                        Mar 18 at 0:49













                        Sorry the pic wasn't more clear, but this was a good suggestion. The angling of the u-joint could have provided a greater range of motion.

                        – DaveInCaz
                        Mar 18 at 14:32





                        Sorry the pic wasn't more clear, but this was a good suggestion. The angling of the u-joint could have provided a greater range of motion.

                        – DaveInCaz
                        Mar 18 at 14:32











                        1














                        Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:



                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE






                        share|improve this answer


















                        • 1





                          That appears to require 60 degrees travel between re-engaging the ratchet.

                          – Pete Kirkham
                          Mar 18 at 13:41











                        • In that case a flat 12-point ratcheting wrench might work better if you can get it in, but I wasn't clear whether that's possible.

                          – R..
                          Mar 18 at 14:44















                        1














                        Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:



                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE






                        share|improve this answer


















                        • 1





                          That appears to require 60 degrees travel between re-engaging the ratchet.

                          – Pete Kirkham
                          Mar 18 at 13:41











                        • In that case a flat 12-point ratcheting wrench might work better if you can get it in, but I wasn't clear whether that's possible.

                          – R..
                          Mar 18 at 14:44













                        1












                        1








                        1







                        Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:



                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE






                        share|improve this answer













                        Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement:



                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE







                        share|improve this answer












                        share|improve this answer



                        share|improve this answer










                        answered Mar 18 at 2:02









                        R..R..

                        4192415




                        4192415







                        • 1





                          That appears to require 60 degrees travel between re-engaging the ratchet.

                          – Pete Kirkham
                          Mar 18 at 13:41











                        • In that case a flat 12-point ratcheting wrench might work better if you can get it in, but I wasn't clear whether that's possible.

                          – R..
                          Mar 18 at 14:44












                        • 1





                          That appears to require 60 degrees travel between re-engaging the ratchet.

                          – Pete Kirkham
                          Mar 18 at 13:41











                        • In that case a flat 12-point ratcheting wrench might work better if you can get it in, but I wasn't clear whether that's possible.

                          – R..
                          Mar 18 at 14:44







                        1




                        1





                        That appears to require 60 degrees travel between re-engaging the ratchet.

                        – Pete Kirkham
                        Mar 18 at 13:41





                        That appears to require 60 degrees travel between re-engaging the ratchet.

                        – Pete Kirkham
                        Mar 18 at 13:41













                        In that case a flat 12-point ratcheting wrench might work better if you can get it in, but I wasn't clear whether that's possible.

                        – R..
                        Mar 18 at 14:44





                        In that case a flat 12-point ratcheting wrench might work better if you can get it in, but I wasn't clear whether that's possible.

                        – R..
                        Mar 18 at 14:44











                        0














                        I would try with my socket set and ratchet handle. If there's enough space to get the socket and ratchet over the nut, then you need only a few degrees of wiggle at right-angles to the nut in order to un-do it one click of the ratchet at a time. (Also you can be sure of getting the nut back on, whereas if you get it off with an open wrench of any sort, this may prove to be a problem!)



                        I have seen the equivalent of a ring spanner with a ratchet mechanism built in, which is hardly any thicker than any standard wrench. I have yet to need to buy one, but it's probably the ultimate solution to such a problem. This is an example:



                        Before anybody points this out: ratchet mechanisms are "weak". They do not allow one to exert really high torque, and tend to fail if you try to dislodge a really stubborn nut, for example by bashing the handle with a hammer. If this is a problem, start with a standard wrench to loosen the nut a little. Then switch to the ratchet.






                        share|improve this answer

























                        • If it were possible to fit a socket on to the "nut" then this might work, but the "nut" has a pipe coming out of it (just visible behind the spanner in the photo).

                          – Andrew Leach
                          Mar 20 at 8:59











                        • I share your pain. Sometimes I think the design brief is to make the hardware as hard to repair as possible (built-in obsolescence by expense of repair). I googled "open-ended ratcheting spanner" and such a thing does appear to exist, for example audel.com.au/toptul-aeat2222-open-end-ratcheting-wrench-22mm ... but unsurprisingly, such a specialist tool is not cheap!

                          – nigel222
                          Mar 20 at 9:25















                        0














                        I would try with my socket set and ratchet handle. If there's enough space to get the socket and ratchet over the nut, then you need only a few degrees of wiggle at right-angles to the nut in order to un-do it one click of the ratchet at a time. (Also you can be sure of getting the nut back on, whereas if you get it off with an open wrench of any sort, this may prove to be a problem!)



                        I have seen the equivalent of a ring spanner with a ratchet mechanism built in, which is hardly any thicker than any standard wrench. I have yet to need to buy one, but it's probably the ultimate solution to such a problem. This is an example:



                        Before anybody points this out: ratchet mechanisms are "weak". They do not allow one to exert really high torque, and tend to fail if you try to dislodge a really stubborn nut, for example by bashing the handle with a hammer. If this is a problem, start with a standard wrench to loosen the nut a little. Then switch to the ratchet.






                        share|improve this answer

























                        • If it were possible to fit a socket on to the "nut" then this might work, but the "nut" has a pipe coming out of it (just visible behind the spanner in the photo).

                          – Andrew Leach
                          Mar 20 at 8:59











                        • I share your pain. Sometimes I think the design brief is to make the hardware as hard to repair as possible (built-in obsolescence by expense of repair). I googled "open-ended ratcheting spanner" and such a thing does appear to exist, for example audel.com.au/toptul-aeat2222-open-end-ratcheting-wrench-22mm ... but unsurprisingly, such a specialist tool is not cheap!

                          – nigel222
                          Mar 20 at 9:25













                        0












                        0








                        0







                        I would try with my socket set and ratchet handle. If there's enough space to get the socket and ratchet over the nut, then you need only a few degrees of wiggle at right-angles to the nut in order to un-do it one click of the ratchet at a time. (Also you can be sure of getting the nut back on, whereas if you get it off with an open wrench of any sort, this may prove to be a problem!)



                        I have seen the equivalent of a ring spanner with a ratchet mechanism built in, which is hardly any thicker than any standard wrench. I have yet to need to buy one, but it's probably the ultimate solution to such a problem. This is an example:



                        Before anybody points this out: ratchet mechanisms are "weak". They do not allow one to exert really high torque, and tend to fail if you try to dislodge a really stubborn nut, for example by bashing the handle with a hammer. If this is a problem, start with a standard wrench to loosen the nut a little. Then switch to the ratchet.






                        share|improve this answer















                        I would try with my socket set and ratchet handle. If there's enough space to get the socket and ratchet over the nut, then you need only a few degrees of wiggle at right-angles to the nut in order to un-do it one click of the ratchet at a time. (Also you can be sure of getting the nut back on, whereas if you get it off with an open wrench of any sort, this may prove to be a problem!)



                        I have seen the equivalent of a ring spanner with a ratchet mechanism built in, which is hardly any thicker than any standard wrench. I have yet to need to buy one, but it's probably the ultimate solution to such a problem. This is an example:



                        Before anybody points this out: ratchet mechanisms are "weak". They do not allow one to exert really high torque, and tend to fail if you try to dislodge a really stubborn nut, for example by bashing the handle with a hammer. If this is a problem, start with a standard wrench to loosen the nut a little. Then switch to the ratchet.







                        share|improve this answer














                        share|improve this answer



                        share|improve this answer








                        edited Mar 19 at 11:21

























                        answered Mar 19 at 11:16









                        nigel222nigel222

                        22114




                        22114












                        • If it were possible to fit a socket on to the "nut" then this might work, but the "nut" has a pipe coming out of it (just visible behind the spanner in the photo).

                          – Andrew Leach
                          Mar 20 at 8:59











                        • I share your pain. Sometimes I think the design brief is to make the hardware as hard to repair as possible (built-in obsolescence by expense of repair). I googled "open-ended ratcheting spanner" and such a thing does appear to exist, for example audel.com.au/toptul-aeat2222-open-end-ratcheting-wrench-22mm ... but unsurprisingly, such a specialist tool is not cheap!

                          – nigel222
                          Mar 20 at 9:25

















                        • If it were possible to fit a socket on to the "nut" then this might work, but the "nut" has a pipe coming out of it (just visible behind the spanner in the photo).

                          – Andrew Leach
                          Mar 20 at 8:59











                        • I share your pain. Sometimes I think the design brief is to make the hardware as hard to repair as possible (built-in obsolescence by expense of repair). I googled "open-ended ratcheting spanner" and such a thing does appear to exist, for example audel.com.au/toptul-aeat2222-open-end-ratcheting-wrench-22mm ... but unsurprisingly, such a specialist tool is not cheap!

                          – nigel222
                          Mar 20 at 9:25
















                        If it were possible to fit a socket on to the "nut" then this might work, but the "nut" has a pipe coming out of it (just visible behind the spanner in the photo).

                        – Andrew Leach
                        Mar 20 at 8:59





                        If it were possible to fit a socket on to the "nut" then this might work, but the "nut" has a pipe coming out of it (just visible behind the spanner in the photo).

                        – Andrew Leach
                        Mar 20 at 8:59













                        I share your pain. Sometimes I think the design brief is to make the hardware as hard to repair as possible (built-in obsolescence by expense of repair). I googled "open-ended ratcheting spanner" and such a thing does appear to exist, for example audel.com.au/toptul-aeat2222-open-end-ratcheting-wrench-22mm ... but unsurprisingly, such a specialist tool is not cheap!

                        – nigel222
                        Mar 20 at 9:25





                        I share your pain. Sometimes I think the design brief is to make the hardware as hard to repair as possible (built-in obsolescence by expense of repair). I googled "open-ended ratcheting spanner" and such a thing does appear to exist, for example audel.com.au/toptul-aeat2222-open-end-ratcheting-wrench-22mm ... but unsurprisingly, such a specialist tool is not cheap!

                        – nigel222
                        Mar 20 at 9:25











                        0














                        I suggest the wrench is the wrong size for a perfect fit on the nut. Plumbing fittings are commonly made in their own peculiar series of sizes. Just a little misfit at the nut becomes a large loss-of-movement at the handle. Suggest you explore the fit. If it is desperate, you might be able to shim the wrench for a neat fit on the nut.






                        share|improve this answer



























                          0














                          I suggest the wrench is the wrong size for a perfect fit on the nut. Plumbing fittings are commonly made in their own peculiar series of sizes. Just a little misfit at the nut becomes a large loss-of-movement at the handle. Suggest you explore the fit. If it is desperate, you might be able to shim the wrench for a neat fit on the nut.






                          share|improve this answer

























                            0












                            0








                            0







                            I suggest the wrench is the wrong size for a perfect fit on the nut. Plumbing fittings are commonly made in their own peculiar series of sizes. Just a little misfit at the nut becomes a large loss-of-movement at the handle. Suggest you explore the fit. If it is desperate, you might be able to shim the wrench for a neat fit on the nut.






                            share|improve this answer













                            I suggest the wrench is the wrong size for a perfect fit on the nut. Plumbing fittings are commonly made in their own peculiar series of sizes. Just a little misfit at the nut becomes a large loss-of-movement at the handle. Suggest you explore the fit. If it is desperate, you might be able to shim the wrench for a neat fit on the nut.







                            share|improve this answer












                            share|improve this answer



                            share|improve this answer










                            answered Mar 19 at 19:00









                            BigPeteBigPete

                            1




                            1



























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