Freehub has notches worn into it: is it OK?
Clash Royale CLAN TAG#URR8PPP
I bought a pair of second-hand wheels, and after removing cassette noticed these notches on the freehub. Is the freehub still in OK condition?
wheels hub
edited Feb 4 at 18:13
David Richerby
11.9k33461
asked Feb 4 at 17:19
vladdihoneyvladdihoney
18138
add a comment |
I bought a pair of second-hand wheels, and after removing cassette noticed these notches on the freehub. Is the freehub still in OK condition?
wheels hub
edited Feb 4 at 18:13
David Richerby
11.9k33461
asked Feb 4 at 17:19
vladdihoneyvladdihoney
18138
1
You can also just use hubs that have steel or titanium freehubs. White Industries uses titanium, and last I looked, all Shimano hubs use steel freehubs with Dura Ace hubs using titanium ones. For stronger or heavier riders, or wheels that get a lot of use, steel or titanium freehubs will last a lot longer.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:52
Maybe the reason why these wheels have been sold!
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:06
@Carel nah, I bought complete bike with these wheels for decent price. All the rest with the bike is absolutely fine.
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 15:09
add a comment |
I bought a pair of second-hand wheels, and after removing cassette noticed these notches on the freehub. Is the freehub still in OK condition?
wheels hub
edited Feb 4 at 18:13
David Richerby
11.9k33461
asked Feb 4 at 17:19
vladdihoneyvladdihoney
18138
I bought a pair of second-hand wheels, and after removing cassette noticed these notches on the freehub. Is the freehub still in OK condition?
wheels hub
wheels hub
edited Feb 4 at 18:13
David Richerby
11.9k33461
asked Feb 4 at 17:19
vladdihoneyvladdihoney
18138
edited Feb 4 at 18:13
David Richerby
11.9k33461
asked Feb 4 at 17:19
vladdihoneyvladdihoney
18138
edited Feb 4 at 18:13
David Richerby
11.9k33461
edited Feb 4 at 18:13
David Richerby
11.9k33461
edited Feb 4 at 18:13
David Richerby
11.9k33461
11.9k33461
asked Feb 4 at 17:19
vladdihoneyvladdihoney
18138
asked Feb 4 at 17:19
vladdihoneyvladdihoney
18138
asked Feb 4 at 17:19
vladdihoneyvladdihoney
18138
18138
1
You can also just use hubs that have steel or titanium freehubs. White Industries uses titanium, and last I looked, all Shimano hubs use steel freehubs with Dura Ace hubs using titanium ones. For stronger or heavier riders, or wheels that get a lot of use, steel or titanium freehubs will last a lot longer.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:52
Maybe the reason why these wheels have been sold!
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:06
@Carel nah, I bought complete bike with these wheels for decent price. All the rest with the bike is absolutely fine.
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 15:09
add a comment |
1
You can also just use hubs that have steel or titanium freehubs. White Industries uses titanium, and last I looked, all Shimano hubs use steel freehubs with Dura Ace hubs using titanium ones. For stronger or heavier riders, or wheels that get a lot of use, steel or titanium freehubs will last a lot longer.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:52
Maybe the reason why these wheels have been sold!
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:06
@Carel nah, I bought complete bike with these wheels for decent price. All the rest with the bike is absolutely fine.
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 15:09
1
1
You can also just use hubs that have steel or titanium freehubs. White Industries uses titanium, and last I looked, all Shimano hubs use steel freehubs with Dura Ace hubs using titanium ones. For stronger or heavier riders, or wheels that get a lot of use, steel or titanium freehubs will last a lot longer.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:52
You can also just use hubs that have steel or titanium freehubs. White Industries uses titanium, and last I looked, all Shimano hubs use steel freehubs with Dura Ace hubs using titanium ones. For stronger or heavier riders, or wheels that get a lot of use, steel or titanium freehubs will last a lot longer.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:52
Maybe the reason why these wheels have been sold!
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:06
Maybe the reason why these wheels have been sold!
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:06
@Carel nah, I bought complete bike with these wheels for decent price. All the rest with the bike is absolutely fine.
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 15:09
@Carel nah, I bought complete bike with these wheels for decent price. All the rest with the bike is absolutely fine.
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 15:09
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
The bumps on the freehub splines are caused by steel cogs on the cassette digging into the softer aluminum metal on the freehub.
You can use a file and file down the ridges, once, maybe twice without affecting performance too much, but eventually you will want to purchase a new freehub.
Depending on your needs, you can purchase a steel freehub and this issue shouldn't be a problem.
answered Feb 4 at 17:40
Glenn GervaisGlenn Gervais
4,69622542
Just out of curiosity: where would you get a steel freehub body to this particular hub?
– ojs
Feb 4 at 17:56
1
Easton is a very well known brand and I suspect your LBS should be able to order the correct freehub for you. Last freehub I ordered was different for road vs MTB and you'll want to make sure the new freehub works for your drivetrain
– Glenn Gervais
Feb 4 at 19:04
@ojs found it bike-discount.de/en/buy/…
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 16:43
add a comment |
I have exactly the same problem on an aluminum freehub after using a cassette supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough:
A proper prevention measure would be using a fully steel freehub body or at least a freehub with steel ribs similar to these below, in addition to torquing the lockring properly:
A new steel hub body, however, may be expensive or unavailable. In my case, it is ~95 € for a new steel hub body vs ~66 € for an aluminum one.
A corrective measure after the problem was discovered was described to me on another bike forum. It is as follows: find a source of thin steel pins. They should be thin and long enough to be able to wedge them in between the cassette and the hub body so that they become a makeshift anti-bite guard splines.
One possible source for such pins are stapler pins, separated and straightened:
Another potential source of steel ribs suggested to me were springs coming with QR-skewers; to straighten, cut and use them.
The suggestion with pins sounds reasonable to me, although I cannot yet comment on its efficiency and longevity. It may not apply to all cases as there may be not much space between the cassette and the hub splines to wedge things in.
answered Feb 4 at 18:35
Grigory RechistovGrigory Rechistov
4,6261829
1
Not so sure about staples, they are really, really soft steel.
– Gabriel C.
Feb 4 at 19:21
1
@GabrielC.Yes, but easy to replace and very cheap. Also, much easier/cheaper to replace than the hub itself.
– Tyzoid
Feb 4 at 22:30
@GabrielC. And you can always temper it by heating in the stove and quench it in water.
– dmb
Feb 5 at 16:39
1
supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough Lockring torque isn't going to matter at all. If the casette has individual cogs, there's no mechanism to transfer force from one cog to the next to distribute the force, like there is for casettes that put multiple cogs on a carrier.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:45
@AndrewHenle : From the picture it seems that the large ones are one block, the 5 smaller ones are individual cogs. OP may try to find a cassette that has all cogs on one carrier but unfortunately all new 10 and 11-speed cassettes by Shimano are built that way. I don't know about the build of Sram cassettes that are also compatible but I'd suggest to have a look at those.
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:01
|
show 1 more comment
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
The bumps on the freehub splines are caused by steel cogs on the cassette digging into the softer aluminum metal on the freehub.
You can use a file and file down the ridges, once, maybe twice without affecting performance too much, but eventually you will want to purchase a new freehub.
Depending on your needs, you can purchase a steel freehub and this issue shouldn't be a problem.
answered Feb 4 at 17:40
Glenn GervaisGlenn Gervais
4,69622542
Just out of curiosity: where would you get a steel freehub body to this particular hub?
– ojs
Feb 4 at 17:56
1
Easton is a very well known brand and I suspect your LBS should be able to order the correct freehub for you. Last freehub I ordered was different for road vs MTB and you'll want to make sure the new freehub works for your drivetrain
– Glenn Gervais
Feb 4 at 19:04
@ojs found it bike-discount.de/en/buy/…
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 16:43
add a comment |
The bumps on the freehub splines are caused by steel cogs on the cassette digging into the softer aluminum metal on the freehub.
You can use a file and file down the ridges, once, maybe twice without affecting performance too much, but eventually you will want to purchase a new freehub.
Depending on your needs, you can purchase a steel freehub and this issue shouldn't be a problem.
answered Feb 4 at 17:40
Glenn GervaisGlenn Gervais
4,69622542
Just out of curiosity: where would you get a steel freehub body to this particular hub?
– ojs
Feb 4 at 17:56
1
Easton is a very well known brand and I suspect your LBS should be able to order the correct freehub for you. Last freehub I ordered was different for road vs MTB and you'll want to make sure the new freehub works for your drivetrain
– Glenn Gervais
Feb 4 at 19:04
@ojs found it bike-discount.de/en/buy/…
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 16:43
add a comment |
The bumps on the freehub splines are caused by steel cogs on the cassette digging into the softer aluminum metal on the freehub.
You can use a file and file down the ridges, once, maybe twice without affecting performance too much, but eventually you will want to purchase a new freehub.
Depending on your needs, you can purchase a steel freehub and this issue shouldn't be a problem.
answered Feb 4 at 17:40
Glenn GervaisGlenn Gervais
4,69622542
The bumps on the freehub splines are caused by steel cogs on the cassette digging into the softer aluminum metal on the freehub.
You can use a file and file down the ridges, once, maybe twice without affecting performance too much, but eventually you will want to purchase a new freehub.
Depending on your needs, you can purchase a steel freehub and this issue shouldn't be a problem.
answered Feb 4 at 17:40
Glenn GervaisGlenn Gervais
4,69622542
answered Feb 4 at 17:40
Glenn GervaisGlenn Gervais
4,69622542
answered Feb 4 at 17:40
Glenn GervaisGlenn Gervais
4,69622542
answered Feb 4 at 17:40
Glenn GervaisGlenn Gervais
4,69622542
4,69622542
Just out of curiosity: where would you get a steel freehub body to this particular hub?
– ojs
Feb 4 at 17:56
1
Easton is a very well known brand and I suspect your LBS should be able to order the correct freehub for you. Last freehub I ordered was different for road vs MTB and you'll want to make sure the new freehub works for your drivetrain
– Glenn Gervais
Feb 4 at 19:04
@ojs found it bike-discount.de/en/buy/…
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 16:43
add a comment |
Just out of curiosity: where would you get a steel freehub body to this particular hub?
– ojs
Feb 4 at 17:56
1
Easton is a very well known brand and I suspect your LBS should be able to order the correct freehub for you. Last freehub I ordered was different for road vs MTB and you'll want to make sure the new freehub works for your drivetrain
– Glenn Gervais
Feb 4 at 19:04
@ojs found it bike-discount.de/en/buy/…
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 16:43
Just out of curiosity: where would you get a steel freehub body to this particular hub?
– ojs
Feb 4 at 17:56
Just out of curiosity: where would you get a steel freehub body to this particular hub?
– ojs
Feb 4 at 17:56
1
1
Easton is a very well known brand and I suspect your LBS should be able to order the correct freehub for you. Last freehub I ordered was different for road vs MTB and you'll want to make sure the new freehub works for your drivetrain
– Glenn Gervais
Feb 4 at 19:04
Easton is a very well known brand and I suspect your LBS should be able to order the correct freehub for you. Last freehub I ordered was different for road vs MTB and you'll want to make sure the new freehub works for your drivetrain
– Glenn Gervais
Feb 4 at 19:04
@ojs found it bike-discount.de/en/buy/…
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 16:43
@ojs found it bike-discount.de/en/buy/…
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 16:43
add a comment |
I have exactly the same problem on an aluminum freehub after using a cassette supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough:
A proper prevention measure would be using a fully steel freehub body or at least a freehub with steel ribs similar to these below, in addition to torquing the lockring properly:
A new steel hub body, however, may be expensive or unavailable. In my case, it is ~95 € for a new steel hub body vs ~66 € for an aluminum one.
A corrective measure after the problem was discovered was described to me on another bike forum. It is as follows: find a source of thin steel pins. They should be thin and long enough to be able to wedge them in between the cassette and the hub body so that they become a makeshift anti-bite guard splines.
One possible source for such pins are stapler pins, separated and straightened:
Another potential source of steel ribs suggested to me were springs coming with QR-skewers; to straighten, cut and use them.
The suggestion with pins sounds reasonable to me, although I cannot yet comment on its efficiency and longevity. It may not apply to all cases as there may be not much space between the cassette and the hub splines to wedge things in.
answered Feb 4 at 18:35
Grigory RechistovGrigory Rechistov
4,6261829
1
Not so sure about staples, they are really, really soft steel.
– Gabriel C.
Feb 4 at 19:21
1
@GabrielC.Yes, but easy to replace and very cheap. Also, much easier/cheaper to replace than the hub itself.
– Tyzoid
Feb 4 at 22:30
@GabrielC. And you can always temper it by heating in the stove and quench it in water.
– dmb
Feb 5 at 16:39
1
supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough Lockring torque isn't going to matter at all. If the casette has individual cogs, there's no mechanism to transfer force from one cog to the next to distribute the force, like there is for casettes that put multiple cogs on a carrier.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:45
@AndrewHenle : From the picture it seems that the large ones are one block, the 5 smaller ones are individual cogs. OP may try to find a cassette that has all cogs on one carrier but unfortunately all new 10 and 11-speed cassettes by Shimano are built that way. I don't know about the build of Sram cassettes that are also compatible but I'd suggest to have a look at those.
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:01
|
show 1 more comment
I have exactly the same problem on an aluminum freehub after using a cassette supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough:
A proper prevention measure would be using a fully steel freehub body or at least a freehub with steel ribs similar to these below, in addition to torquing the lockring properly:
A new steel hub body, however, may be expensive or unavailable. In my case, it is ~95 € for a new steel hub body vs ~66 € for an aluminum one.
A corrective measure after the problem was discovered was described to me on another bike forum. It is as follows: find a source of thin steel pins. They should be thin and long enough to be able to wedge them in between the cassette and the hub body so that they become a makeshift anti-bite guard splines.
One possible source for such pins are stapler pins, separated and straightened:
Another potential source of steel ribs suggested to me were springs coming with QR-skewers; to straighten, cut and use them.
The suggestion with pins sounds reasonable to me, although I cannot yet comment on its efficiency and longevity. It may not apply to all cases as there may be not much space between the cassette and the hub splines to wedge things in.
answered Feb 4 at 18:35
Grigory RechistovGrigory Rechistov
4,6261829
1
Not so sure about staples, they are really, really soft steel.
– Gabriel C.
Feb 4 at 19:21
1
@GabrielC.Yes, but easy to replace and very cheap. Also, much easier/cheaper to replace than the hub itself.
– Tyzoid
Feb 4 at 22:30
@GabrielC. And you can always temper it by heating in the stove and quench it in water.
– dmb
Feb 5 at 16:39
1
supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough Lockring torque isn't going to matter at all. If the casette has individual cogs, there's no mechanism to transfer force from one cog to the next to distribute the force, like there is for casettes that put multiple cogs on a carrier.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:45
@AndrewHenle : From the picture it seems that the large ones are one block, the 5 smaller ones are individual cogs. OP may try to find a cassette that has all cogs on one carrier but unfortunately all new 10 and 11-speed cassettes by Shimano are built that way. I don't know about the build of Sram cassettes that are also compatible but I'd suggest to have a look at those.
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:01
|
show 1 more comment
I have exactly the same problem on an aluminum freehub after using a cassette supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough:
A proper prevention measure would be using a fully steel freehub body or at least a freehub with steel ribs similar to these below, in addition to torquing the lockring properly:
A new steel hub body, however, may be expensive or unavailable. In my case, it is ~95 € for a new steel hub body vs ~66 € for an aluminum one.
A corrective measure after the problem was discovered was described to me on another bike forum. It is as follows: find a source of thin steel pins. They should be thin and long enough to be able to wedge them in between the cassette and the hub body so that they become a makeshift anti-bite guard splines.
One possible source for such pins are stapler pins, separated and straightened:
Another potential source of steel ribs suggested to me were springs coming with QR-skewers; to straighten, cut and use them.
The suggestion with pins sounds reasonable to me, although I cannot yet comment on its efficiency and longevity. It may not apply to all cases as there may be not much space between the cassette and the hub splines to wedge things in.
answered Feb 4 at 18:35
Grigory RechistovGrigory Rechistov
4,6261829
I have exactly the same problem on an aluminum freehub after using a cassette supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough:
A proper prevention measure would be using a fully steel freehub body or at least a freehub with steel ribs similar to these below, in addition to torquing the lockring properly:
A new steel hub body, however, may be expensive or unavailable. In my case, it is ~95 € for a new steel hub body vs ~66 € for an aluminum one.
A corrective measure after the problem was discovered was described to me on another bike forum. It is as follows: find a source of thin steel pins. They should be thin and long enough to be able to wedge them in between the cassette and the hub body so that they become a makeshift anti-bite guard splines.
One possible source for such pins are stapler pins, separated and straightened:
Another potential source of steel ribs suggested to me were springs coming with QR-skewers; to straighten, cut and use them.
The suggestion with pins sounds reasonable to me, although I cannot yet comment on its efficiency and longevity. It may not apply to all cases as there may be not much space between the cassette and the hub splines to wedge things in.
answered Feb 4 at 18:35
Grigory RechistovGrigory Rechistov
4,6261829
edited Feb 4 at 18:41
answered Feb 4 at 18:35
Grigory RechistovGrigory Rechistov
4,6261829
answered Feb 4 at 18:35
Grigory RechistovGrigory Rechistov
4,6261829
answered Feb 4 at 18:35
Grigory RechistovGrigory Rechistov
4,6261829
4,6261829
1
Not so sure about staples, they are really, really soft steel.
– Gabriel C.
Feb 4 at 19:21
1
@GabrielC.Yes, but easy to replace and very cheap. Also, much easier/cheaper to replace than the hub itself.
– Tyzoid
Feb 4 at 22:30
@GabrielC. And you can always temper it by heating in the stove and quench it in water.
– dmb
Feb 5 at 16:39
1
supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough Lockring torque isn't going to matter at all. If the casette has individual cogs, there's no mechanism to transfer force from one cog to the next to distribute the force, like there is for casettes that put multiple cogs on a carrier.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:45
@AndrewHenle : From the picture it seems that the large ones are one block, the 5 smaller ones are individual cogs. OP may try to find a cassette that has all cogs on one carrier but unfortunately all new 10 and 11-speed cassettes by Shimano are built that way. I don't know about the build of Sram cassettes that are also compatible but I'd suggest to have a look at those.
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:01
|
show 1 more comment
1
Not so sure about staples, they are really, really soft steel.
– Gabriel C.
Feb 4 at 19:21
1
@GabrielC.Yes, but easy to replace and very cheap. Also, much easier/cheaper to replace than the hub itself.
– Tyzoid
Feb 4 at 22:30
@GabrielC. And you can always temper it by heating in the stove and quench it in water.
– dmb
Feb 5 at 16:39
1
supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough Lockring torque isn't going to matter at all. If the casette has individual cogs, there's no mechanism to transfer force from one cog to the next to distribute the force, like there is for casettes that put multiple cogs on a carrier.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:45
@AndrewHenle : From the picture it seems that the large ones are one block, the 5 smaller ones are individual cogs. OP may try to find a cassette that has all cogs on one carrier but unfortunately all new 10 and 11-speed cassettes by Shimano are built that way. I don't know about the build of Sram cassettes that are also compatible but I'd suggest to have a look at those.
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:01
1
1
Not so sure about staples, they are really, really soft steel.
– Gabriel C.
Feb 4 at 19:21
Not so sure about staples, they are really, really soft steel.
– Gabriel C.
Feb 4 at 19:21
1
1
@GabrielC.Yes, but easy to replace and very cheap. Also, much easier/cheaper to replace than the hub itself.
– Tyzoid
Feb 4 at 22:30
@GabrielC.Yes, but easy to replace and very cheap. Also, much easier/cheaper to replace than the hub itself.
– Tyzoid
Feb 4 at 22:30
@GabrielC. And you can always temper it by heating in the stove and quench it in water.
– dmb
Feb 5 at 16:39
@GabrielC. And you can always temper it by heating in the stove and quench it in water.
– dmb
Feb 5 at 16:39
1
1
supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough Lockring torque isn't going to matter at all. If the casette has individual cogs, there's no mechanism to transfer force from one cog to the next to distribute the force, like there is for casettes that put multiple cogs on a carrier.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:45
supposedly installed with lockring's torque not high enough Lockring torque isn't going to matter at all. If the casette has individual cogs, there's no mechanism to transfer force from one cog to the next to distribute the force, like there is for casettes that put multiple cogs on a carrier.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:45
@AndrewHenle : From the picture it seems that the large ones are one block, the 5 smaller ones are individual cogs. OP may try to find a cassette that has all cogs on one carrier but unfortunately all new 10 and 11-speed cassettes by Shimano are built that way. I don't know about the build of Sram cassettes that are also compatible but I'd suggest to have a look at those.
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:01
@AndrewHenle : From the picture it seems that the large ones are one block, the 5 smaller ones are individual cogs. OP may try to find a cassette that has all cogs on one carrier but unfortunately all new 10 and 11-speed cassettes by Shimano are built that way. I don't know about the build of Sram cassettes that are also compatible but I'd suggest to have a look at those.
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:01
|
show 1 more comment
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You can also just use hubs that have steel or titanium freehubs. White Industries uses titanium, and last I looked, all Shimano hubs use steel freehubs with Dura Ace hubs using titanium ones. For stronger or heavier riders, or wheels that get a lot of use, steel or titanium freehubs will last a lot longer.
– Andrew Henle
Feb 6 at 14:52
Maybe the reason why these wheels have been sold!
– Carel
Feb 6 at 15:06
@Carel nah, I bought complete bike with these wheels for decent price. All the rest with the bike is absolutely fine.
– vladdihoney
Feb 6 at 15:09