How can I fix a door with a damaged knob hole?

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enter image description here
Help need help fixing door. Is this still fixable or not? enter image description here










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  • I am really confused as to why people are answering with suggestions for fixing solid wood doors when OP clearly has a hollow-core door.

    – MonkeyZeus
    Jan 22 at 17:45











  • It's not conclusive that the door is hollow. Probably, but not definitely. Variations on most of these suggestions are applicable regardless.

    – isherwood
    Jan 23 at 20:56
















10















enter image description here
Help need help fixing door. Is this still fixable or not? enter image description here










share|improve this question
























  • I am really confused as to why people are answering with suggestions for fixing solid wood doors when OP clearly has a hollow-core door.

    – MonkeyZeus
    Jan 22 at 17:45











  • It's not conclusive that the door is hollow. Probably, but not definitely. Variations on most of these suggestions are applicable regardless.

    – isherwood
    Jan 23 at 20:56














10












10








10


1






enter image description here
Help need help fixing door. Is this still fixable or not? enter image description here










share|improve this question
















enter image description here
Help need help fixing door. Is this still fixable or not? enter image description here







repair doors doorknob






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edited Jan 21 at 18:35









Machavity

7,44611836




7,44611836










asked Jan 21 at 17:27









Sam not so smartSam not so smart

5113




5113












  • I am really confused as to why people are answering with suggestions for fixing solid wood doors when OP clearly has a hollow-core door.

    – MonkeyZeus
    Jan 22 at 17:45











  • It's not conclusive that the door is hollow. Probably, but not definitely. Variations on most of these suggestions are applicable regardless.

    – isherwood
    Jan 23 at 20:56


















  • I am really confused as to why people are answering with suggestions for fixing solid wood doors when OP clearly has a hollow-core door.

    – MonkeyZeus
    Jan 22 at 17:45











  • It's not conclusive that the door is hollow. Probably, but not definitely. Variations on most of these suggestions are applicable regardless.

    – isherwood
    Jan 23 at 20:56

















I am really confused as to why people are answering with suggestions for fixing solid wood doors when OP clearly has a hollow-core door.

– MonkeyZeus
Jan 22 at 17:45





I am really confused as to why people are answering with suggestions for fixing solid wood doors when OP clearly has a hollow-core door.

– MonkeyZeus
Jan 22 at 17:45













It's not conclusive that the door is hollow. Probably, but not definitely. Variations on most of these suggestions are applicable regardless.

– isherwood
Jan 23 at 20:56






It's not conclusive that the door is hollow. Probably, but not definitely. Variations on most of these suggestions are applicable regardless.

– isherwood
Jan 23 at 20:56











5 Answers
5






active

oldest

votes


















33














I'd glue and clamp the wood to put it back together, then install a door reinforcement plate.



Interior doors are usually 1-3/8" thick. Exterior are 1-3/4" thick.



enter image description here






share|improve this answer
































    7














    I wouldn't. I'd spend 20 bucks at Restore, or free from used_your_city_name_here.com, craigslist, or whatever your local buy-sell-trade site is. This is repairable, but all repairs are a trade off of effort vs results. Used doors in good condition can be had for free or nearly free. The "proper", lasting, way to repair this would be to cut out and replace the entire section (~8+ inches height by ~3 inches in guessing from the photo), re-drill, etc. If you did this right you would end up with a door that was solid and functional, but still obviously repaired. Just not worth it.






    share|improve this answer

























    • This is a good cost-effective solution that a lot of people don't think about. It may not be an option if you need the door to match another door nearby, but it can be a great alternative to a new door or a questionable repair.

      – JPhi1618
      Jan 22 at 18:15











    • Unfortunately, replacement slabs rarely go in as easily as we'd like. Different hinge styles and positions, variations in actual size, and differing knob bore heights can all play havoc with our best-laid plans.

      – isherwood
      Jan 23 at 20:51


















    5














    I've been going through a similar process for a door I'm turning round. After removing everything that I'm moving, my process has been:



    • Give the full door a good sanding

    • Glue and clamp all cracked/split wood

    • Sand the door

    • Cut new wood to fill the larger holes (old key hole etc, making sure it is slightly smaller than the hole, so nothing is proud of the original wood)

    • Fill all the holes with wood filler (various sorts out there, if you're UK based, wood filler from Wickes or Screwfix does a good job). I've found wood filler to be a lot better than the multi purpose fillers out there

    • Another through sanding

    • Paint filler with primer

    • Mark and drill for new door fixings (can fit them now, but I'd remove them before the next step)

    • Paint all the door with undercoat (you may get away with one coat, I put on two as my door had been painted pink)

    • Paint door with top coat

    Long process, multiple waiting for it to dry. But better that than a bad job.






    share|improve this answer
































      2














      The proper technique for this kind of repair would be to install a dutchman. Shipwrights and boatwrights regularly do this sort of thing.



      https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2015/09/11/dutchman-door-repair/



      Cut away the damaged wood along the edge of the door, plus maybe 4–5 inches past the damage on either side. Taper the cut on either end, so the ends of the cut come smoothly out of edge of the door. Then, carefully cut and fit a piece of wood to the recess. Make it maybe a 1/4 inch thicker than the door, and maybe a little less proud on the edge of the door.



      If you have a really good fit, you can glue it and clamp it in place with resorcinol — Titebond 2 or 3 would probably work, too (but they all require a good fit and high clamping pressures to achieve a solid, strong glue line).



      Otherwise, if your woodworking-fu is not up to snuff, glue it and clamp it in place with a good epoxy like System 3 or West System. Epoxy is tolerant of thickish glue lines and actually likes rather lower clamping pressures (joint starvation weakens things).



      If your fit is really sloppy, mix 2 batches of epoxy, one un-thickened, and the other thickened with wood flour, microfibers or fumed silica to a paste-like consistency. These thickeners will be available from your epoxy vendor.



      Prime both surfaces with the un-thickened epoxy, and then, while it's still wet, apply a sufficiency of thickened epoxy and clamp it up.



      If you do thicken it with fumed silica, remember that it is essentially powdered quartz. Once the epoxy sets, sanding or cutting this will be nearly impossible. Make sure you trim away as much excess as possible while the epoxy is still "green" — after it's started to set, but is still rubbery.



      Note that you don't actually need clamps for something like this: maybe 4-6 screws, 2-3 on either side of the damage, coated in mold release or wax and driven through the edge of the dutchman into the edge of the door will suffice. If you use screws, dry-fit the dutchman and pre-drill both it and the door for the screws.



      Once the epoxy sets, you can remove the screws and then counterbore the holes and install wood plugs with glue (not dowels) to seal the holes. Or set it up so the screws are countersunk and counterbored and then just install wood plugs on top of the screws. If this is an exterior door and you leave the screws in place, consider using silicon bronze screws so as to prevent corrosion. And stainless won't work, because stainless requires contact with oxygen to be, well, stainless. Without access to oxygen, stainless steel develops what is called crevice corrosion:



      stainless steel bolt suffering crevice corrosion



      Then, a few minutes worth of work with a sharp block plane to fair everything up and bring the surfaces flush with the existing surface, and you're ready to paint.



      Done right, this repair will be



      • Virtually invisible (and on a painted door, completely invisible), and

      • At least as strong, if not more strong, than the original wood.

      You'll have to redo the lockset installation, as well.






      share|improve this answer























      • I admire your propensity for craftsmanship, but we're talking about a hardboard-faced, probably hollow-core door here. :)

        – isherwood
        Jan 23 at 20:53


















      1














      I would fill the broken area with builders bog and then sand it back to square. I did this with a door at my place.



      Maybe inject some wood glue and clamp the cracks first.






      share|improve this answer























      • I'd be concerned about the longevity of the damaged wood. Would it make sense to fill this damage and then rehang the door the other way round, so that you've got fresh wood to work with when attaching the fittings?

        – Roger Lipscombe
        Jan 22 at 10:16











      • Hollow-core doors rarely have the appropriate hinge and knob support on the opposite side.

        – isherwood
        Jan 23 at 20:55










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      5 Answers
      5






      active

      oldest

      votes








      5 Answers
      5






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      33














      I'd glue and clamp the wood to put it back together, then install a door reinforcement plate.



      Interior doors are usually 1-3/8" thick. Exterior are 1-3/4" thick.



      enter image description here






      share|improve this answer





























        33














        I'd glue and clamp the wood to put it back together, then install a door reinforcement plate.



        Interior doors are usually 1-3/8" thick. Exterior are 1-3/4" thick.



        enter image description here






        share|improve this answer



























          33












          33








          33







          I'd glue and clamp the wood to put it back together, then install a door reinforcement plate.



          Interior doors are usually 1-3/8" thick. Exterior are 1-3/4" thick.



          enter image description here






          share|improve this answer















          I'd glue and clamp the wood to put it back together, then install a door reinforcement plate.



          Interior doors are usually 1-3/8" thick. Exterior are 1-3/4" thick.



          enter image description here







          share|improve this answer














          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer








          edited Jan 21 at 18:37

























          answered Jan 21 at 17:34









          isherwoodisherwood

          47.6k456122




          47.6k456122























              7














              I wouldn't. I'd spend 20 bucks at Restore, or free from used_your_city_name_here.com, craigslist, or whatever your local buy-sell-trade site is. This is repairable, but all repairs are a trade off of effort vs results. Used doors in good condition can be had for free or nearly free. The "proper", lasting, way to repair this would be to cut out and replace the entire section (~8+ inches height by ~3 inches in guessing from the photo), re-drill, etc. If you did this right you would end up with a door that was solid and functional, but still obviously repaired. Just not worth it.






              share|improve this answer

























              • This is a good cost-effective solution that a lot of people don't think about. It may not be an option if you need the door to match another door nearby, but it can be a great alternative to a new door or a questionable repair.

                – JPhi1618
                Jan 22 at 18:15











              • Unfortunately, replacement slabs rarely go in as easily as we'd like. Different hinge styles and positions, variations in actual size, and differing knob bore heights can all play havoc with our best-laid plans.

                – isherwood
                Jan 23 at 20:51















              7














              I wouldn't. I'd spend 20 bucks at Restore, or free from used_your_city_name_here.com, craigslist, or whatever your local buy-sell-trade site is. This is repairable, but all repairs are a trade off of effort vs results. Used doors in good condition can be had for free or nearly free. The "proper", lasting, way to repair this would be to cut out and replace the entire section (~8+ inches height by ~3 inches in guessing from the photo), re-drill, etc. If you did this right you would end up with a door that was solid and functional, but still obviously repaired. Just not worth it.






              share|improve this answer

























              • This is a good cost-effective solution that a lot of people don't think about. It may not be an option if you need the door to match another door nearby, but it can be a great alternative to a new door or a questionable repair.

                – JPhi1618
                Jan 22 at 18:15











              • Unfortunately, replacement slabs rarely go in as easily as we'd like. Different hinge styles and positions, variations in actual size, and differing knob bore heights can all play havoc with our best-laid plans.

                – isherwood
                Jan 23 at 20:51













              7












              7








              7







              I wouldn't. I'd spend 20 bucks at Restore, or free from used_your_city_name_here.com, craigslist, or whatever your local buy-sell-trade site is. This is repairable, but all repairs are a trade off of effort vs results. Used doors in good condition can be had for free or nearly free. The "proper", lasting, way to repair this would be to cut out and replace the entire section (~8+ inches height by ~3 inches in guessing from the photo), re-drill, etc. If you did this right you would end up with a door that was solid and functional, but still obviously repaired. Just not worth it.






              share|improve this answer















              I wouldn't. I'd spend 20 bucks at Restore, or free from used_your_city_name_here.com, craigslist, or whatever your local buy-sell-trade site is. This is repairable, but all repairs are a trade off of effort vs results. Used doors in good condition can be had for free or nearly free. The "proper", lasting, way to repair this would be to cut out and replace the entire section (~8+ inches height by ~3 inches in guessing from the photo), re-drill, etc. If you did this right you would end up with a door that was solid and functional, but still obviously repaired. Just not worth it.







              share|improve this answer














              share|improve this answer



              share|improve this answer








              edited Jan 23 at 20:54









              isherwood

              47.6k456122




              47.6k456122










              answered Jan 22 at 15:40









              mickeyfmickeyf

              33914




              33914












              • This is a good cost-effective solution that a lot of people don't think about. It may not be an option if you need the door to match another door nearby, but it can be a great alternative to a new door or a questionable repair.

                – JPhi1618
                Jan 22 at 18:15











              • Unfortunately, replacement slabs rarely go in as easily as we'd like. Different hinge styles and positions, variations in actual size, and differing knob bore heights can all play havoc with our best-laid plans.

                – isherwood
                Jan 23 at 20:51

















              • This is a good cost-effective solution that a lot of people don't think about. It may not be an option if you need the door to match another door nearby, but it can be a great alternative to a new door or a questionable repair.

                – JPhi1618
                Jan 22 at 18:15











              • Unfortunately, replacement slabs rarely go in as easily as we'd like. Different hinge styles and positions, variations in actual size, and differing knob bore heights can all play havoc with our best-laid plans.

                – isherwood
                Jan 23 at 20:51
















              This is a good cost-effective solution that a lot of people don't think about. It may not be an option if you need the door to match another door nearby, but it can be a great alternative to a new door or a questionable repair.

              – JPhi1618
              Jan 22 at 18:15





              This is a good cost-effective solution that a lot of people don't think about. It may not be an option if you need the door to match another door nearby, but it can be a great alternative to a new door or a questionable repair.

              – JPhi1618
              Jan 22 at 18:15













              Unfortunately, replacement slabs rarely go in as easily as we'd like. Different hinge styles and positions, variations in actual size, and differing knob bore heights can all play havoc with our best-laid plans.

              – isherwood
              Jan 23 at 20:51





              Unfortunately, replacement slabs rarely go in as easily as we'd like. Different hinge styles and positions, variations in actual size, and differing knob bore heights can all play havoc with our best-laid plans.

              – isherwood
              Jan 23 at 20:51











              5














              I've been going through a similar process for a door I'm turning round. After removing everything that I'm moving, my process has been:



              • Give the full door a good sanding

              • Glue and clamp all cracked/split wood

              • Sand the door

              • Cut new wood to fill the larger holes (old key hole etc, making sure it is slightly smaller than the hole, so nothing is proud of the original wood)

              • Fill all the holes with wood filler (various sorts out there, if you're UK based, wood filler from Wickes or Screwfix does a good job). I've found wood filler to be a lot better than the multi purpose fillers out there

              • Another through sanding

              • Paint filler with primer

              • Mark and drill for new door fixings (can fit them now, but I'd remove them before the next step)

              • Paint all the door with undercoat (you may get away with one coat, I put on two as my door had been painted pink)

              • Paint door with top coat

              Long process, multiple waiting for it to dry. But better that than a bad job.






              share|improve this answer





























                5














                I've been going through a similar process for a door I'm turning round. After removing everything that I'm moving, my process has been:



                • Give the full door a good sanding

                • Glue and clamp all cracked/split wood

                • Sand the door

                • Cut new wood to fill the larger holes (old key hole etc, making sure it is slightly smaller than the hole, so nothing is proud of the original wood)

                • Fill all the holes with wood filler (various sorts out there, if you're UK based, wood filler from Wickes or Screwfix does a good job). I've found wood filler to be a lot better than the multi purpose fillers out there

                • Another through sanding

                • Paint filler with primer

                • Mark and drill for new door fixings (can fit them now, but I'd remove them before the next step)

                • Paint all the door with undercoat (you may get away with one coat, I put on two as my door had been painted pink)

                • Paint door with top coat

                Long process, multiple waiting for it to dry. But better that than a bad job.






                share|improve this answer



























                  5












                  5








                  5







                  I've been going through a similar process for a door I'm turning round. After removing everything that I'm moving, my process has been:



                  • Give the full door a good sanding

                  • Glue and clamp all cracked/split wood

                  • Sand the door

                  • Cut new wood to fill the larger holes (old key hole etc, making sure it is slightly smaller than the hole, so nothing is proud of the original wood)

                  • Fill all the holes with wood filler (various sorts out there, if you're UK based, wood filler from Wickes or Screwfix does a good job). I've found wood filler to be a lot better than the multi purpose fillers out there

                  • Another through sanding

                  • Paint filler with primer

                  • Mark and drill for new door fixings (can fit them now, but I'd remove them before the next step)

                  • Paint all the door with undercoat (you may get away with one coat, I put on two as my door had been painted pink)

                  • Paint door with top coat

                  Long process, multiple waiting for it to dry. But better that than a bad job.






                  share|improve this answer















                  I've been going through a similar process for a door I'm turning round. After removing everything that I'm moving, my process has been:



                  • Give the full door a good sanding

                  • Glue and clamp all cracked/split wood

                  • Sand the door

                  • Cut new wood to fill the larger holes (old key hole etc, making sure it is slightly smaller than the hole, so nothing is proud of the original wood)

                  • Fill all the holes with wood filler (various sorts out there, if you're UK based, wood filler from Wickes or Screwfix does a good job). I've found wood filler to be a lot better than the multi purpose fillers out there

                  • Another through sanding

                  • Paint filler with primer

                  • Mark and drill for new door fixings (can fit them now, but I'd remove them before the next step)

                  • Paint all the door with undercoat (you may get away with one coat, I put on two as my door had been painted pink)

                  • Paint door with top coat

                  Long process, multiple waiting for it to dry. But better that than a bad job.







                  share|improve this answer














                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer








                  edited Jan 22 at 9:40

























                  answered Jan 22 at 8:28









                  PuffafishPuffafish

                  21226




                  21226





















                      2














                      The proper technique for this kind of repair would be to install a dutchman. Shipwrights and boatwrights regularly do this sort of thing.



                      https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2015/09/11/dutchman-door-repair/



                      Cut away the damaged wood along the edge of the door, plus maybe 4–5 inches past the damage on either side. Taper the cut on either end, so the ends of the cut come smoothly out of edge of the door. Then, carefully cut and fit a piece of wood to the recess. Make it maybe a 1/4 inch thicker than the door, and maybe a little less proud on the edge of the door.



                      If you have a really good fit, you can glue it and clamp it in place with resorcinol — Titebond 2 or 3 would probably work, too (but they all require a good fit and high clamping pressures to achieve a solid, strong glue line).



                      Otherwise, if your woodworking-fu is not up to snuff, glue it and clamp it in place with a good epoxy like System 3 or West System. Epoxy is tolerant of thickish glue lines and actually likes rather lower clamping pressures (joint starvation weakens things).



                      If your fit is really sloppy, mix 2 batches of epoxy, one un-thickened, and the other thickened with wood flour, microfibers or fumed silica to a paste-like consistency. These thickeners will be available from your epoxy vendor.



                      Prime both surfaces with the un-thickened epoxy, and then, while it's still wet, apply a sufficiency of thickened epoxy and clamp it up.



                      If you do thicken it with fumed silica, remember that it is essentially powdered quartz. Once the epoxy sets, sanding or cutting this will be nearly impossible. Make sure you trim away as much excess as possible while the epoxy is still "green" — after it's started to set, but is still rubbery.



                      Note that you don't actually need clamps for something like this: maybe 4-6 screws, 2-3 on either side of the damage, coated in mold release or wax and driven through the edge of the dutchman into the edge of the door will suffice. If you use screws, dry-fit the dutchman and pre-drill both it and the door for the screws.



                      Once the epoxy sets, you can remove the screws and then counterbore the holes and install wood plugs with glue (not dowels) to seal the holes. Or set it up so the screws are countersunk and counterbored and then just install wood plugs on top of the screws. If this is an exterior door and you leave the screws in place, consider using silicon bronze screws so as to prevent corrosion. And stainless won't work, because stainless requires contact with oxygen to be, well, stainless. Without access to oxygen, stainless steel develops what is called crevice corrosion:



                      stainless steel bolt suffering crevice corrosion



                      Then, a few minutes worth of work with a sharp block plane to fair everything up and bring the surfaces flush with the existing surface, and you're ready to paint.



                      Done right, this repair will be



                      • Virtually invisible (and on a painted door, completely invisible), and

                      • At least as strong, if not more strong, than the original wood.

                      You'll have to redo the lockset installation, as well.






                      share|improve this answer























                      • I admire your propensity for craftsmanship, but we're talking about a hardboard-faced, probably hollow-core door here. :)

                        – isherwood
                        Jan 23 at 20:53















                      2














                      The proper technique for this kind of repair would be to install a dutchman. Shipwrights and boatwrights regularly do this sort of thing.



                      https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2015/09/11/dutchman-door-repair/



                      Cut away the damaged wood along the edge of the door, plus maybe 4–5 inches past the damage on either side. Taper the cut on either end, so the ends of the cut come smoothly out of edge of the door. Then, carefully cut and fit a piece of wood to the recess. Make it maybe a 1/4 inch thicker than the door, and maybe a little less proud on the edge of the door.



                      If you have a really good fit, you can glue it and clamp it in place with resorcinol — Titebond 2 or 3 would probably work, too (but they all require a good fit and high clamping pressures to achieve a solid, strong glue line).



                      Otherwise, if your woodworking-fu is not up to snuff, glue it and clamp it in place with a good epoxy like System 3 or West System. Epoxy is tolerant of thickish glue lines and actually likes rather lower clamping pressures (joint starvation weakens things).



                      If your fit is really sloppy, mix 2 batches of epoxy, one un-thickened, and the other thickened with wood flour, microfibers or fumed silica to a paste-like consistency. These thickeners will be available from your epoxy vendor.



                      Prime both surfaces with the un-thickened epoxy, and then, while it's still wet, apply a sufficiency of thickened epoxy and clamp it up.



                      If you do thicken it with fumed silica, remember that it is essentially powdered quartz. Once the epoxy sets, sanding or cutting this will be nearly impossible. Make sure you trim away as much excess as possible while the epoxy is still "green" — after it's started to set, but is still rubbery.



                      Note that you don't actually need clamps for something like this: maybe 4-6 screws, 2-3 on either side of the damage, coated in mold release or wax and driven through the edge of the dutchman into the edge of the door will suffice. If you use screws, dry-fit the dutchman and pre-drill both it and the door for the screws.



                      Once the epoxy sets, you can remove the screws and then counterbore the holes and install wood plugs with glue (not dowels) to seal the holes. Or set it up so the screws are countersunk and counterbored and then just install wood plugs on top of the screws. If this is an exterior door and you leave the screws in place, consider using silicon bronze screws so as to prevent corrosion. And stainless won't work, because stainless requires contact with oxygen to be, well, stainless. Without access to oxygen, stainless steel develops what is called crevice corrosion:



                      stainless steel bolt suffering crevice corrosion



                      Then, a few minutes worth of work with a sharp block plane to fair everything up and bring the surfaces flush with the existing surface, and you're ready to paint.



                      Done right, this repair will be



                      • Virtually invisible (and on a painted door, completely invisible), and

                      • At least as strong, if not more strong, than the original wood.

                      You'll have to redo the lockset installation, as well.






                      share|improve this answer























                      • I admire your propensity for craftsmanship, but we're talking about a hardboard-faced, probably hollow-core door here. :)

                        – isherwood
                        Jan 23 at 20:53













                      2












                      2








                      2







                      The proper technique for this kind of repair would be to install a dutchman. Shipwrights and boatwrights regularly do this sort of thing.



                      https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2015/09/11/dutchman-door-repair/



                      Cut away the damaged wood along the edge of the door, plus maybe 4–5 inches past the damage on either side. Taper the cut on either end, so the ends of the cut come smoothly out of edge of the door. Then, carefully cut and fit a piece of wood to the recess. Make it maybe a 1/4 inch thicker than the door, and maybe a little less proud on the edge of the door.



                      If you have a really good fit, you can glue it and clamp it in place with resorcinol — Titebond 2 or 3 would probably work, too (but they all require a good fit and high clamping pressures to achieve a solid, strong glue line).



                      Otherwise, if your woodworking-fu is not up to snuff, glue it and clamp it in place with a good epoxy like System 3 or West System. Epoxy is tolerant of thickish glue lines and actually likes rather lower clamping pressures (joint starvation weakens things).



                      If your fit is really sloppy, mix 2 batches of epoxy, one un-thickened, and the other thickened with wood flour, microfibers or fumed silica to a paste-like consistency. These thickeners will be available from your epoxy vendor.



                      Prime both surfaces with the un-thickened epoxy, and then, while it's still wet, apply a sufficiency of thickened epoxy and clamp it up.



                      If you do thicken it with fumed silica, remember that it is essentially powdered quartz. Once the epoxy sets, sanding or cutting this will be nearly impossible. Make sure you trim away as much excess as possible while the epoxy is still "green" — after it's started to set, but is still rubbery.



                      Note that you don't actually need clamps for something like this: maybe 4-6 screws, 2-3 on either side of the damage, coated in mold release or wax and driven through the edge of the dutchman into the edge of the door will suffice. If you use screws, dry-fit the dutchman and pre-drill both it and the door for the screws.



                      Once the epoxy sets, you can remove the screws and then counterbore the holes and install wood plugs with glue (not dowels) to seal the holes. Or set it up so the screws are countersunk and counterbored and then just install wood plugs on top of the screws. If this is an exterior door and you leave the screws in place, consider using silicon bronze screws so as to prevent corrosion. And stainless won't work, because stainless requires contact with oxygen to be, well, stainless. Without access to oxygen, stainless steel develops what is called crevice corrosion:



                      stainless steel bolt suffering crevice corrosion



                      Then, a few minutes worth of work with a sharp block plane to fair everything up and bring the surfaces flush with the existing surface, and you're ready to paint.



                      Done right, this repair will be



                      • Virtually invisible (and on a painted door, completely invisible), and

                      • At least as strong, if not more strong, than the original wood.

                      You'll have to redo the lockset installation, as well.






                      share|improve this answer













                      The proper technique for this kind of repair would be to install a dutchman. Shipwrights and boatwrights regularly do this sort of thing.



                      https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2015/09/11/dutchman-door-repair/



                      Cut away the damaged wood along the edge of the door, plus maybe 4–5 inches past the damage on either side. Taper the cut on either end, so the ends of the cut come smoothly out of edge of the door. Then, carefully cut and fit a piece of wood to the recess. Make it maybe a 1/4 inch thicker than the door, and maybe a little less proud on the edge of the door.



                      If you have a really good fit, you can glue it and clamp it in place with resorcinol — Titebond 2 or 3 would probably work, too (but they all require a good fit and high clamping pressures to achieve a solid, strong glue line).



                      Otherwise, if your woodworking-fu is not up to snuff, glue it and clamp it in place with a good epoxy like System 3 or West System. Epoxy is tolerant of thickish glue lines and actually likes rather lower clamping pressures (joint starvation weakens things).



                      If your fit is really sloppy, mix 2 batches of epoxy, one un-thickened, and the other thickened with wood flour, microfibers or fumed silica to a paste-like consistency. These thickeners will be available from your epoxy vendor.



                      Prime both surfaces with the un-thickened epoxy, and then, while it's still wet, apply a sufficiency of thickened epoxy and clamp it up.



                      If you do thicken it with fumed silica, remember that it is essentially powdered quartz. Once the epoxy sets, sanding or cutting this will be nearly impossible. Make sure you trim away as much excess as possible while the epoxy is still "green" — after it's started to set, but is still rubbery.



                      Note that you don't actually need clamps for something like this: maybe 4-6 screws, 2-3 on either side of the damage, coated in mold release or wax and driven through the edge of the dutchman into the edge of the door will suffice. If you use screws, dry-fit the dutchman and pre-drill both it and the door for the screws.



                      Once the epoxy sets, you can remove the screws and then counterbore the holes and install wood plugs with glue (not dowels) to seal the holes. Or set it up so the screws are countersunk and counterbored and then just install wood plugs on top of the screws. If this is an exterior door and you leave the screws in place, consider using silicon bronze screws so as to prevent corrosion. And stainless won't work, because stainless requires contact with oxygen to be, well, stainless. Without access to oxygen, stainless steel develops what is called crevice corrosion:



                      stainless steel bolt suffering crevice corrosion



                      Then, a few minutes worth of work with a sharp block plane to fair everything up and bring the surfaces flush with the existing surface, and you're ready to paint.



                      Done right, this repair will be



                      • Virtually invisible (and on a painted door, completely invisible), and

                      • At least as strong, if not more strong, than the original wood.

                      You'll have to redo the lockset installation, as well.







                      share|improve this answer












                      share|improve this answer



                      share|improve this answer










                      answered Jan 23 at 0:43









                      Nicholas CareyNicholas Carey

                      1412




                      1412












                      • I admire your propensity for craftsmanship, but we're talking about a hardboard-faced, probably hollow-core door here. :)

                        – isherwood
                        Jan 23 at 20:53

















                      • I admire your propensity for craftsmanship, but we're talking about a hardboard-faced, probably hollow-core door here. :)

                        – isherwood
                        Jan 23 at 20:53
















                      I admire your propensity for craftsmanship, but we're talking about a hardboard-faced, probably hollow-core door here. :)

                      – isherwood
                      Jan 23 at 20:53





                      I admire your propensity for craftsmanship, but we're talking about a hardboard-faced, probably hollow-core door here. :)

                      – isherwood
                      Jan 23 at 20:53











                      1














                      I would fill the broken area with builders bog and then sand it back to square. I did this with a door at my place.



                      Maybe inject some wood glue and clamp the cracks first.






                      share|improve this answer























                      • I'd be concerned about the longevity of the damaged wood. Would it make sense to fill this damage and then rehang the door the other way round, so that you've got fresh wood to work with when attaching the fittings?

                        – Roger Lipscombe
                        Jan 22 at 10:16











                      • Hollow-core doors rarely have the appropriate hinge and knob support on the opposite side.

                        – isherwood
                        Jan 23 at 20:55















                      1














                      I would fill the broken area with builders bog and then sand it back to square. I did this with a door at my place.



                      Maybe inject some wood glue and clamp the cracks first.






                      share|improve this answer























                      • I'd be concerned about the longevity of the damaged wood. Would it make sense to fill this damage and then rehang the door the other way round, so that you've got fresh wood to work with when attaching the fittings?

                        – Roger Lipscombe
                        Jan 22 at 10:16











                      • Hollow-core doors rarely have the appropriate hinge and knob support on the opposite side.

                        – isherwood
                        Jan 23 at 20:55













                      1












                      1








                      1







                      I would fill the broken area with builders bog and then sand it back to square. I did this with a door at my place.



                      Maybe inject some wood glue and clamp the cracks first.






                      share|improve this answer













                      I would fill the broken area with builders bog and then sand it back to square. I did this with a door at my place.



                      Maybe inject some wood glue and clamp the cracks first.







                      share|improve this answer












                      share|improve this answer



                      share|improve this answer










                      answered Jan 22 at 0:00









                      fretfret

                      1112




                      1112












                      • I'd be concerned about the longevity of the damaged wood. Would it make sense to fill this damage and then rehang the door the other way round, so that you've got fresh wood to work with when attaching the fittings?

                        – Roger Lipscombe
                        Jan 22 at 10:16











                      • Hollow-core doors rarely have the appropriate hinge and knob support on the opposite side.

                        – isherwood
                        Jan 23 at 20:55

















                      • I'd be concerned about the longevity of the damaged wood. Would it make sense to fill this damage and then rehang the door the other way round, so that you've got fresh wood to work with when attaching the fittings?

                        – Roger Lipscombe
                        Jan 22 at 10:16











                      • Hollow-core doors rarely have the appropriate hinge and knob support on the opposite side.

                        – isherwood
                        Jan 23 at 20:55
















                      I'd be concerned about the longevity of the damaged wood. Would it make sense to fill this damage and then rehang the door the other way round, so that you've got fresh wood to work with when attaching the fittings?

                      – Roger Lipscombe
                      Jan 22 at 10:16





                      I'd be concerned about the longevity of the damaged wood. Would it make sense to fill this damage and then rehang the door the other way round, so that you've got fresh wood to work with when attaching the fittings?

                      – Roger Lipscombe
                      Jan 22 at 10:16













                      Hollow-core doors rarely have the appropriate hinge and knob support on the opposite side.

                      – isherwood
                      Jan 23 at 20:55





                      Hollow-core doors rarely have the appropriate hinge and knob support on the opposite side.

                      – isherwood
                      Jan 23 at 20:55

















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